Why you should go
Mystical and magical, the remote Rapa Nui (Easter Island) has long been a magnet for tourists who flock here to see the 900 or so moai. These monolithic stone statues, carved by the Rapa Nui people in the period AD 1100 to 1600, are believed to be the face of the ancestors and were sculpted so that their “mana” or spiritual energy could live on after their death. The island, an amazing outdoor museum, is set in stunning raw landscape. It is a place that becomes more fascinating with every step you take. Oh and seafood here is excellent!
Where is Rapa Nui?
Just south of the Tropic of Capricorn, Rapa Nui is considered to be the most
remote inhabited island on the planet. This Polynesian
island, part of Chile, is about a five hour flight from Santiago de Chile and
about the same from Papeete, Tahiti. Its nearest neighbour is Pitcairn Island –
approximately 1,300 miles away.
Rapa Nui (Large Rapa)
exists because
The triangular-shaped island, seven miles wide and 14 miles long, is the
result of three volcanic eruptions which happened thousands of years ago.
Terevakta, in the north, is the highest of the three volcanoes which are now
dormant. The other two of importance are Poike, in the east, and Rano Kau in
the south west. There are 70 smaller ones dotted around the island.
A bit of history
Although its history has long been a source of constant debate, due to the
fact that are no written records, it is thought that Polynesians landed here in
between AD 600 to AD 900.
Jacob Roggeveen, a Dutch explorer discovered the island on Easter Sunday in 1722 and named it Easter Island. In 1770, the Spanish arrived and four years later the English led by Captain James Cook who found the Moai overthrown and the islanders in poor health. The island’s trees had also been wiped out by the inhabitants.
Reasons including European diseases may have contributed to the population decline. The most destructive year of the island’s history was in 1862 when an expedition from Peru arrived and took approximately 1,500 islanders as slaves.
In 1888, Easter Island was annexed by Chile. Half of the 8.000 current population are descended from the original Polynesian settlers.
Star attraction – the Moai
Almost half of the island is the Rapa Nui National Park. (A fee of US$ 80 is collected before you exit the airport.) This Unesco World Heritage site showcases one of the planet’s most extraordinary cultural marvels, the legacy of the Rapa Nui people, the moai.
The archaeological sites here are extraordinary, something that you will remember for the rest of your life.
See moai in various stages at Rano Raraku,
the volcano turned into a factory
This was the quarry for tuff (volcanic rock) from which most of the statues
were made. A trip here will give you a valuable insight into how they were
carved. From here they were taken to other parts of the island. Just how is
another topic of debate.
Rano Raraku evokes a sense of being transported back to another era as you walk among the hundreds of abandoned moai, some completed, others unfinished and many with giant heads, their bodies buried in the ground. Still attached to the rock face is El Gigante, the largest moai, extending to approximately 20 metres (66 feet), ever produced.
El Gigante
Visit the ahu, (rectangular stone platform)
The 50 or so moai that are
standing on their platforms today were restored by archaeologists who began
working in the mid-1950s. Statues, usually, were placed with their backs to the
sea, overlooking a ceremonial area and village.
It is believed that the moai were pulled down by the islanders themselves. Quite why is still unkown. There are two theories, one is that there were wars between the tribes and the moai were torn down in the fighting. The other is that they lost faith in the moai. Reportedly, when the first Europeans arrived in 1722, the statues were still upright. By the end of the 19th century not one was standing.
Here are the main ahu you should see.
The largest ahu having 15 moai, now 16
Ahu Tongariki
The largest ahu having 15 moai. They were toppled by the islanders and damaged
in 1960 by a tsunami but thanks to a restoration programme undertaken in the
1990s they are upright again.
The detailed craftsmanship that has gone into each of these statutes is unbelievable. Each with their own distinctive features. One is wearing a pukao (a heavy topknot) carved from red volcanic rock.
Best time to visit is at sunrise as the moai constantly change colour. As the sun comes up the moai contrast sharply with the blue sky, verdant hills and the ocean in front. A lone moai stands at the entrance.
Ahu Nau Nau, the moai of Anakena
Anakena, is exactly the image you have of a tropical paradise beach. White sands with turquoise sands lapping at the edges surrounded by palm trees which, years ago, came from Tahiti.
It was here, the story goes, that the first king of the island, Hotu Matu’a came ashore with his men and so the Rapa Nui culture began. Studies have confirmed that this site was occupied AD 1200.
Mounted in this idyllic scence is the Ahu Nau Nau. The seven moais, erected in 1978, stand out for the elegant features and the details engraved on his back. It is considered to be one of the island’s best-preserved platforms because these moai were buried in the sand when they were toppled which protected them from the elements.
During the excavation, fragments of white coral and a disk of red scoria were found. These bits formed the eyes of the moai. Previously, it had been thought that the eye sockets of the statues had been empty.
At the foot of the Maunga Hau Epa hill is Ahu Ature Huki. This single moai was the first to be raised on the island in modern times.
Ahu Akivi
Unlike the rest of the moai that face in land to protect the people, these 7
moai, of almost the same size, look into the ocean and directly at the setting
sun. It is deemed to be a celestial observatory.
According to legend, these statutes pay homage to the seven young explorers who were sent to Rapa Nui to explore before it was colonised by King Hotu Matu’a.
Ahu Tahai
Near the capital Hanga Roa is the island’s hotspot to see the sun set. The
old village of Tahai has three ahus. Ahu
Vai 'Uri has five moais and Ahu
Tahai one moai and Ahu Ko Te
Riku one moai that has a topknot and eyes.
With the backdrop of the Pacific Ocean, the archaeological site of Tahai is regarded to be one of the oldest settlements on Rapa Nui. Among the hills you can see foundations of traditional houses, hare paenga.
Ara O Te Ao, take
a hike along the “Path of Power”,
This
is one of the oldest paths on the island. After reaching Rano Kau, the
largest crater in Rapa Nui, take the path until you reach the ceremonial
village of Orongo. Located in the southwestern part of the Rano Kau volcano
wedged between the edge of the crater engulfing the lagoon and the cliff that
plunges into the sea.
Orongo was occupied in the spring by the chiefs and other important tribesmen who wanted to collect the first sacred egg of the manutara bird. The highlight being the Tangata Manu (birdman) competition. The Tangata Manu was the main cult of the Rapa Nui up to the 19th century.
The birdman who collected the first egg from the offshore islet Motu Nui would rule the island for that year. It was believed that the birds had a “connection” with the gods. The houses you will see here are made entirely from stone.
Rano Kau, the
largest crater in Rapa Nui
Go underground
Take a trip to Ana Kai Tangata and/or Ana Kakenga caves to see rock art. Many of the islanders believe that the spirits of the ancestors live here.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Fly with LATAM Airlines from Santiago (approximately 5 hours). For
best fares visit latam.com
Stay
Hangaroa Eco Village and Spa. A
lovely hotel on the main promenade of Rapa Nui town, close to the centre. For
availability and best rates visit hangaroa.cl
NB While you may see signs of conflict between the Rapa Nui people and the Chilean state such as black flags, it is mainly peaceful.
