Destination Hanoi, Vietnam

The lines of Vietnamese and tourists went on for miles and miles. They were all there to pay their respects to the revered figure of Ho Chi Minh, Bringer of Light, as his name translates.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

 

The revolutionary leader died in 1969. But for many Vietnamese, a visit to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi is the most important reason to visit their capital. Here they can see his embalmed body and pay their respects to the man many regard as a hero.

Ho Chi Minh spearheaded the fight for a united Communist Vietnam. The mausoleum's grounds and building are impressive and contrast starkly with Minh’s simple house on stilts behind it.

The lotus-shaped One Pillar Pagoda rising out of water is another attraction there. A symbol of Hanoi, it was originally built in the 11^th century on a single pillar – hence its name. It has been reconstructed several times over the years, the last being in 1955 by the new Vietnamese government.

The gardens of the Temple of Literature

From there it was on to the Temple of Literature, a requirement on any tourist’s itinerary. This ancient capital’s first university, founded in 1070, is dedicated to Confucius.

The contrast between its zen-like gardens, studded with pagodas and ponds, and the streets of Hanoi was stark. Motorbikes were everywhere in the city seemingly only interrupted with a steady flow of tour buses and a few cars.

This small capital city, which over the centuries has been plagued by so many wars and survived colonial occupation, is chaotic yet exhilarating at the same time.

The Old Quarter

A visit to what was sarcastically referred to as the Hanoi Hilton by US prisoners of war gives another picture of Hanoi. Hoa Lo Prison, its official name, is where the French held Vietnamese revolutionaries. It was later used by the North Vietnamese to keep Americans, including the late Senator John McCain, captured during the American War, (as the Vietnamese call what we know as the Vietnam War). Only a small section of the prison remains but the exhibits tell the story of what was endured here. 

But, it is the Old Quarter, where it feels as if time has stood still, that captures your affection. With a delicious French flavour, Hanoi’s beating heart is unique and exotic. 

Where life happens

This labyrinth of narrow streets filled with architectural marvels such as the tunnel homes (so-called because they are long and not wide) is a great place for getting to grips with the culture. The 36 streets were named after the merchandise that was originally traded here. 

Women in conical hats push wheelbarrows displaying goods to sell, locals sit on the pavements peeling vegetables or playing with their children or simply taking a walk. This where life happens. 

Hoan Kiem Lake

You will also find some lovely boutiques to mooch around as well as trendy cafés where you can enjoy delicious Vietnamese coffee. Have it on its own or drink it like a local with sweetened condensed milk. It is also served with yoghurt or egg white.

It is also a great place to sample the wonderful flavours of Vietnamese cuisine as there are so many restaurants to choose from. There are also plenty of cookery classes should you want to improve your culinary skills.

Afterwards take a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, fringed by trees. People come here to escape the hustle and bustle as it is so calm and relaxing. Ngoc Son Temple (Temple of the Jade Mountain), a renowned landmark, is perched on a small island.

Just past the lake is the Municipal Water Puppet Theatre, where tourists flock to watch musicians and puppeteers perform this centuries-old Vietnamese tradition. You should see one performance while in the country.

Hanoi is on the cusp of change. You can see the winds of globalisation starting to blow through the city. I am so glad that I got to see it now.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

Fly with Qatar Airways. For best rates visit qatarairways.com

Stay at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi sofitel-legend-metropole-hanoi.com

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Destination Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

The onslaught of motorbikes was, to say the least, overwhelming. It appeared evident that they did not stop for pedestrians even at the crossing. As I stood wondering how I was going to get to the other side a Vietnamese lady, who was passing with her husband, took hold of my hand. The three of us got to the other side in one piece.

I had just arrived in Ho Chi Minh City and realised that motorbikes are king here. I learned quickly that you head straight into the traffic. You do not stop or hesitate and the bikes will work around you. 

The onslaught of motorbikes was, to say the least, overwhelming

Hot and humid, mad and chaotic, Vietnam’s largest city crackles with energy and dynamism. Previously known as Saigon (though many locals still call it that), it is a stark contrast of two worlds, the old and the new.

Sleek modern high-rises punch the sky. Chic shopping malls stocked with the usual global brands are a sign that the 21^st century has arrived here. While traditional markets attract locals and tourists. Colonial architecture and tree-lined boulevards are a sharp reminder of Saigon being a French colony. Ornate temples compete to grab your undivided attention.

Civil Hall and statue of Ho Chi Minh

Modernity has staked its claim too in Ho Chi Minh City. Buildings have rapidly sprung up and it has seen fast economic growth.

Now the city comprises 19 districts, entwined in the centre by the Saigon River. Most tourists never leave district 1 as this is where the action is. 

I started my tour of the city’s landmarks at the Reunification Palace. This concrete 1960s-styled building witnessed the tanks of the North Vietnamese Army crashing through its gates in April 1975. The Vietnam War was over and the communists were the victors, the country was united. And Saigon was no more.  

Reunification Palace

The palace is a maze of tunnels and secret rooms. You can see the war command centre with and old communication equipment. Though the palace is set in pretty gardens and still used for events, the echoing of 1975 coming from the walls is almost deafening.

A reminder of colonial times is the Central Post Office, a rather grand 19^th-century building with beautifully-designed marble floors and elaborate furnishings. It is still a functioning post office but the old phone boxes are now home to modern technology. A large picture of Ho Chi Minh, a revered figure, watching over you, reminds you that you are in Vietnam. 

The Post Office

Notre Dame Cathedral is another architectural star from the colonial period. After taking a look, we went to the lively Ben Thanh Market. Jammed with food stalls and all sorts of souvenirs, this is a place where your bargaining skills will be put to the test. 

Watching a water puppet show is a must while in the country. Puppets perform on a stage of water and tell stories of Vietnamese folklore with a traditional music accompaniment.

After the performance at the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre, some friends and I took a cyclo tour through streets decorated in fairy lights up to the Saigon Opera House, an imposing sight on Lam Son Square.

Modernity has staked its claim too in Ho Chi Minh City

On one side of the square is the Hotel Continental, synonymous with writer Graham Greene and on the other is the Hotel Caravelle, whose bar was frequented by foreign correspondents during the Vietnam War.  

The City Hall, another wonderful piece of French colonial architecture, looks amazing at night. It is at the northern end of Nguyen Hue Street, a walking promenade flanked by other lovely buildings and headed by a statue of Ho Chi Minh. (He led the Vietnamese National movement for over three decades.) Saunter along and you will find some great bars and restaurants on your way to the Saigon River. The best shopping street in the city is nearby.

Ben Thanh Market

To learn a little bit about the offensive launched by the Viet Cong to liberate South Vietnam, you have to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels, a maze of underground passageways over an hour’s drive from the city. The tunnel entrances were so well camouflaged that the guerillas could not be discovered living in this “village”.  You also get to see some of the booby traps they lay to surprise the American and South Vietnamese soldiers.

Booby trap at Cu Chi

For a complete change of pace, I took a day to discover life outside the city. Just before embarking on a cruise along the Mekong Delta to soak up some Vietnamese culture, there was a quick stop at the Jade Emperor Pagoda, also known as the Turquoise Pagoda.  

You are met with a heady scent of incense as you enter this working temple. Built in the early 1900s to honour the Taoist god, it is has intricate panels of carved woodwork and figurines. It is considered one of the best in Ho Chi Minh City.

Life on the Mekong Delta

Sailing along the Mekong Delta was rather special. From floating markets and houses to rice paddies and temples, this maze of canals, rivers and streams gave a glimpse into another world. 

Cao Dai Temple

At one home we saw coconut candy and rice paste being made. I enjoyed a scrumptious lunch of local fish in a beautiful tropical garden. I learnt about local traditions and ended the day with a visit to the opulent Cao Dai Temple. Cao Daism is said to be a blend of ideas taken from the main religions including Christianity, Buddhism, Islam, Confucianism, Hinduism and Taoism.

While I was not converted to religion, I did become a fan of Ho Chi Minh City. 

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

I flew out with Singapore Airlines singaporeair.com via Singapore and back with Qatar Airlines (qatarairways.com) via Doha (Business Class is amazing.)

Stay at the Rex Hotel. For best rates visit rexhotelvietnam.com

 

The Socialist Republic of Vietnam, as it is officially called, is one of the few remaining communist countries. Visas are required for holders of UK passports which you should get before travelling