Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, Basel, Switzerland

Taking in the early morning rays of sun on the terrace of the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, Basel’s most chi-chi address, the only sound I could hear was the aqua-blue waters of the Rhine flowing rapidly beneath me. 

This hotel certainly lived up to its name. I felt regal as I tucked into my lavish breakfast of coffee, fruit, smoked salmon and poached eggs served up well-done, just the way I like them. It was the perfect way to start the day.

An ode to old-world elegance, the immaculate and opulent décor of Les Trois Rois is resolutely traditional. One of Europe’s grandest and oldest hotels it has been attracting the great and the good for centuries. Les Trois Rois must have been proud of Napoleon’s visit as there is a suite named after him. 

Starting out life in 1681 as the Inn zu Drei Königen, an establishment for gentlemen only, it  had morphed by the middle of the 19^th century into a first-rate hotel. Thomas Straumann, the current owner who bought the hotel in 2004 became its new knight in shining armour. 

Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois at night

He bought the neighbouring former Basel Cantonial Bank as an extension and had the buildings painstakingly restored to pay homage to the lavishness of the legendary Belle Epoque property. With contemporary comfort slotted in to reflect the very essence of what guests now demand of a luxury establishment, 20 months later Les Trois Rois reopened its doors.

Time and effort has been put into every detail. Ascending the carpeted steps, huge glittering chandeliers greet you as you enter. There is definitely a sense of occasion as you enter the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois. Antiques pepper the establishment. The marble gilded pillars of the atrium add style and sophistication.  

As I checked in I was presented with a single red rose –such a lovely thought. After a warm welcome. I knew that this stay was going to be an experience that I would treasure.

Double room overlooking the Rhine

My spacious room overlooking the Rhine was served up with a dollop of nostalgia enhanced with discreet nudges of high-tech such as Wi-Fi, a heated bathroom floor and a flat screen TV. Awaiting me was an elegant vase filled with water ready for me to place my rose. Other lovely touches included three pears, chocolates and a plate of little cakes. The mini-bar was complimentary. Cocooned in the finest of linens on an extremely comfy bed, I slept so well.

The two-starred Michelin-starred restaurant, the Cheval Blanc was full so I never got to sample the delights of the renowned chef Peter Knogl. I went to the Brasserie instead where I had superb food dished up with a distinctive French and Swiss flavour in a congenial atmosphere with a wonderful setting. 

The river and its banks had taken on a different character at night, something more magical, I thought as I sipped a delicious glass of chilled Swiss white from Vaud.  This country does produce some real palate pleasers. 

The Brasserie

I was spoilt for choice as the menu had plenty of mouth-watering dishes to tempt me. On the recommendation of the Maître d’hôtel Brasserie I began with cerviche of scallops which was wonderful. 

For the main course I tucked into the turbot with an exquisite champagne mousse accompanied by minted peas and home-made ravioli bursting with fresh vegetables. It was absolutely sensational. A glass of citrus-drenched Chablis Premier Cru went down a treat with this dish.

Finding room for dessert was difficult but they were too tempting to turn down. The variation de sorbets maison was magnificent. Flavours of passion fruit and coconut assaulted my senses.  

Service throughout Les Trois Rois is impeccable. Everything is done to make your stay most memorable. The only problem is that it will be extremely difficult to trump this hotel.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

British Airways flies from London City to Zurich up to four times a day. For best fares and to book visit ba.com/londoncity

 

(In addition BA has services from Heathrow with connections also available from across the UK and Ireland.)

Customers have a quick and easy journey through the Docklands airport, with hand baggage it takes just 15 minutes to get from kerbside to airside

This is such a great way to fly.

Train fares from Zurich to Basel start at £40 standard class return. For bookings visit uk.voyages-sncf.com

Travelling by train is easy in Switzerland. Good frequency trains are punctual and altogether a pleasant experience

For more information on the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois (lestroisrois.com) 

For more information on Basel visit basel.com/en

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist

Destination Basel, Switzerland

With buildings that tell a story of days gone by and a crunch of cutting-edge architecture, Basel fuses history and the contemporary edginess of the future with style and panache. 

The cultural capital of Switzerland, a label this city wears so well, is as intoxicating as sipping a glass of good champagne. After a few hours you can quickly immerse yourself into the leisurely rhythm of Basel’s high quality lifestyle.

Divided and defined by the Rhine, the area has passed through the hands of the Celts and Romans. But, it was not until AD374 that Basilia (Basel) first appeared in records. In 1460 Switzerland’s first university was established here. In the time of the Dutch humanist scholar Erasmus, this city also became a centre of book printing and paper production. 

Aerial view of Basel

© Basel Tourismus

During the Reformation, Basel became a centre for silk weaving and dying. The seeds were starting to be sown for industrialisation. Today’s Basel, straddling the borders of France, Germany and Switzerland, has become a magnet for trade fairs as well as a hub for life sciences and the pharmaceutical industry. And, as this is Switzerland, there are many key players from the world of finance to be found here. 

The birth place of tennis ace Roger Federer is also renowned for its artistic flair having a great collection of buildings designed by international architects. The head office of the renowned Herzog & de Meuron are here. (The firm was part of the collaboration that worked on the design of Beijing’s 2008 main Olympic National Stadium known as the Bird’s Nest.) The new Roche building that punches the sky, adding a new dimension to Basel’s skyline, has been designed by this dynamic firm. 

I can’t think of anywhere in the world that I have been where hospitals are on a guided tour of architecture, but here they are proud to show off the Children’s Hospital, an incredible construction and the University Hospital which has lovely gardens to stroll through.

Basel Cathedral

© Andreas Gerth
Courtesy Basel Tourismus

On a hot summer’s afternoon, I sauntered along the banks of the Rhine. The river was ablaze with flashes of colour created by a clever gadget called a Basel “Wickelfisch”. This watertight fish-shaped bathing sack, which you take with you while swimming, keeps your belongings dry. There is not problem here of what to do with your clothes while taking a dip to cool off.

After passing rows of delightful medieval houses, I arrived in St Alban-Vorstadt and discovered the 13^th-century town gate, St Alban Tor. After relaxing in the pretty garden which surrounds it, I headed to the Basel Papiermũhler, a working museum for the paper and printing sectors.

This tourist-friendly compact city is easy to travel around. I had my Mobility Ticket, issued by my hotel, which gives you free transport during your stay. So when my feet got weary, I hopped on a tram. People here are warm and welcoming and are only too willing to lend a helping hand with directions. 

Basel maybe a small city but it is a powerhouse of top-notch art galleries, ancient landmarks and monuments. The red sandstone walls of Basel Cathedral, parts of which date back to the 12^th century, along with the twin towers and multi-coloured roof tiles make a rather special sight. 

Fasnachtsbrunnen Jean Tinguely

©Standortmarketing Basel

From the observation platform (Pfalz) behind this Romanesque and Gothic cathedral you have an amazing view of the Old Town and the Rhine. In the far distance you can see the Black Forest and Vosges mountains.

The Old Town is reputedly one of Europe’s best preserved and most stunning. Cobbled streets are lined with buildings offering a cornucopia of architecture. Behind narrow alleyways lay hidden squares and houses with intimate courtyards. Cute little shops beg you to enter. 

Fountains punctuate the city – there are approximately 180 of them. The Tinguely Fashnachsbrunnen, created by the Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely, is arguably the most outstanding, albeit it is the only one that you cannot drink from.

Basel’s beating heart is the Markplatz home to the 16^th century City Hall. Colourful old murals line the walls of the courtyard. Nearby is the bustling food and flower market which is open daily. You cannot leave town without trying Basler Läckerli. These spicy biscuits with hints of honey, nuts, orange and lemon peel are scrumptious. 

The old and the new

The art gallery to put on your must-see list is the Foundation Beyeler designed by Renzo Piano One of the most visited museums in Switzerland, it is set in beautiful grounds and plays host to approximately 250 contemporary works of art and sculptures. 

I managed to catch Marlene Dumas: The Image As Burden exhibition which shows the artist’s work from the mid-1970s to present day. The South African is one of the most highly-rated painters in modern art. Her starting point may usually be a photograph but her interpretation is individual and certainly provocative. As well as exhibitions, there is also interesting permanent collection to cast your eye over.

After feasting on the culture, enjoy the city’s culinary prowess. Find bars in Kleinbasel, which is across the river from the Old Town or indulge yourself at the legendary two-stared Michelin restaurant the Cheval Blanc at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois or discover lots of other delightful haunts in the city. 

Basel is a tonic. Reviving and stimulating spiced with beauty and charm.

By Daralyn Danns 

Getting there

British Airways currently flies from London City to Zurich up to four times a day. For more information and the lowest fares go to ba.com/londoncity

 

(In addition BA has services from Heathrow with connections also available from across the UK and Ireland.)

Customers have a quick and easy journey through the Docklands airport, with hand baggage it takes just 15 minutes to get from kerbside to airside

 

BA makes flying an enjoyable experience! 

Train fares from Zurich to Basel start at £40 standard class return. For bookings visit voyages-sncf.com Travelling by train is easy in Switzerland. Good frequency trains are punctual and altogether a pleasant experience

I stayed at Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois (lestroisrois.com). The chicest address in the city. You will be hard-pressed to find fault here. It is the epitome of excellence

For more information on Basel visit basel.com/en

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist