Destination Cartagena de Indias, Colombia

If I were to describe my vision of heaven it would be Cartagena de Indias, the Colombian paradise on the Caribbean. In this hot and steamy city the rhythms of salsa, cumbia and vallenato seem to ooze from the cobblestones. The Caribbean laid-back, almost soporific, lifestyle merges harmoniously with history, nature and informal sophistication peppered with a sprinkling of edginess. 

The stone walls of Cartagena were built to protect the city from plundering pirates such as Sir Francis Drake who wanted to get their hands on the city’s treasures. Inside the walls is the old town, a glittering and precious jewel, now a Unesco world heritage site. 

The picturesque colonial buildings punctuated with balconies draped in bougainvillea rub shoulders with ornate cathedrals and buzzing squares, all set against the bluest of skies. Milling the streets are characters that could have just popped out of a Gabriel García Márquez novel. Cartagena de Indias is irresistibly exotic.

 Cartagena de Indias, the Colombian paradise
Courtesy of Proexport Colombia

It is hard not to be tempted to buy a slice of mouth-watering pineapple from one of the Palenqueras attired in brightly-coloured dresses carrying fruit balanced on their heads. These Afro-Colombian women are a reminder of the melting pot of cultures that have left their mark on Cartagena. 

The hotel that I called home while in the city was the Sofitel Santa Clara. Here in what was once a 17th-century convent you get a sense of detachment from the rest of the world. It has a colonial feel, but modernity stakes its claim as well.

After having breakfast accompanied by parrots and a toucan that roost in the central courtyard, it was time for a swim in the pool before heading off to the Rosario Islands, an archipelago of pretty coral islands, about an hour’s boat ride away.

Evening approaching

Sailing out of the bay through the open sea, the water miraculously changed to a beautiful shade of turquoise. As I embarked on to the white sands fringed by palm trees, I felt as if I was entering a film set.

It is easy to see why people come here to the San Pedro de Malagua hotel to escape reality and engage in a little quiet contemplation. It certainly does not get more tranquil than this. Besides walking along the beach, trying some watersports or going to the spa, there is not much else strenuous to do than lift a drink. As evening approaches, chill out in a hammock and watch the sun set and gaze at the blanket of stars that covers the sky.  

Bocagrande, Cartagena’s answer to Miami Beach, is only a short cab ride away from the Sofitel Santa Clara. The beach may not be as beautiful as the ones you usually find in the Caribbean, but Cartagena's culture and pulsating nightlife offer so much more than the average Caribbean island.

 The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas

The late afternoon, when the sea breeze cools the air, is the best time to explore this city. The late afternoon sun acts likes a spotlight bathing it with a golden glow.

A ride in a horse-driven carriage around the old town is the idyllic way to see it. Though it may sound cheesy, it’s rather nostalgic and romantic which is what Cartagena is all about. 

If history is your bag, there are a few culture spots you should see. The Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas provides an insight into the city’s days of yesteryear. It is considered the best fortress built by the Spaniards in the colonies. 

The Palace of the Inquisition, one of the city's finest buildings, is now a museum. It is not for the faint-hearted as there are instruments of torture on display. Worth visiting is the Gold Museum, which has an impressive collection of pre-Colombian gold artefacts. 

Afterwards saunter along the streets and alleys that beg to be roamed. You will want the exercise to walk off the calories you consume. The food here is superb. There are so many top-notch restaurants, you will be spoilt for choice.

Cartagena is a tale of two cities: the old and the new. For excellent views of the past colliding with the present, take a cab up to the Convento de la Popa, the mountain-top monastery. 

I felt a real pang of regret when it was time to leave for the airport. It is not often that reality matches the dream. But, then it is not often that you stumble across the wonder that is Cartagena de Indias.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

I stayed at the Sofitel Santa Clara (sofitel.com) and flew with Iberia via Madrid 

Last Frontiers (lastfrontiers.com) offers tailor-made holidays throughout Latin America including Colombia

For more information about Colombia visit procolombia.co/en

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist

Destination Bogotá, Colombia

From the top of Cerro de Monserrate, the view of Bogotá shrouded by smog was irresistibly hypnotic and alluring. The church and its shrine to Señor Caído (Fallen Lord), reputed to be responsible for many miracles, may have been attracting visitors to this hill for hundreds of years, but the fact that I was actually here in Colombia’s capital was reward enough. 

Not so long ago the mere mention of Bogotá conjured up images of kidnappings and cocaine. Now boho chic fuses with urban grit. And, mainly due to the former president Álvaro Uribe and Antanas Mockus, a past mayor, South America’s edgiest city dances to a different beat. The streets, set against a backing track of tropical birdsong, are filled with the aromas of freshly brewed Colombian coffee and the scent of beautiful flowers. The most coveted souvenirs are emeralds.

Perched in the Eastern Andes, Bogotá is approximately 8,700ft (2,650m) above sea level. The weather is spring-like all year round with warm days and chilly nights. Once you acclimatise to the altitude, you will find the city easy to get around as it is laid out in a grid system of carreras and calles. 

Bogotá
Courtesy of Proexport Colombia

Bogotá is a vibrant, modern city where cultural mixes of Spanish and Indian meld with high-rises and universities rubbing shoulders with colonial houses and shanty towns. (Like any other metropolis, there are parts that you don’t venture.) The city’s frenetic pace and heaving traffic are tempered with green oases of tranquillity. 

The Bogotanos are extremely welcoming and even going through immigration was easy because the staff were so helpful. They all seem genuinely pleased to see tourists, which makes a refreshing change. 

To get a feel of how Bogotá started, head to La Candelaria, the old historic neighbourhood. At its heart is the Plaza de Bolívar, home of the presidential palace Casa de Nariño, other government buildings and the Gothic cathedral. At its core is the statue of Simón Bolívar, the South American liberator. 

Cerro de Monserrate

Soak up the village-y atmosphere as you wander round its narrow cobbled streets peppered with colourful colonial buildings, ancient churches and museums interspersed with cafés, restaurants and market traders competing for business.

Take a hike into the past and visit the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) to learn how gold played its part in shaping the country. Not to be missed is the Museo Botero, named after the Colombian artist Fernando Botero, housing some of his renowned works of voluminous figures as well as paintings by Renoir and Monet from his personal art collection.

The Salt Cathedral, which has been carved out of a salt mine, at Zipaquirá, north of the city is well worth a visit, if you have time.

La Candelaria, the old historic neighbourhood 

Leave some space on your itinerary for shopping. The Zona Rosa and Zona T are home to some of the city’s best boutiques, full of names you won’t see at home. There are also plenty of excellent restaurants in the city. Parque de la 93, Zona Rosa and Usaquén are all trendy areas. Some of the city’s hippest eateries are owned by Harry Sasson (harrysasson.com) whom I was told by a local friend, is Colombia’s most renowned chef.

At night Bogotá crackles with electricity. “Vamos a rumbear?” (are we going to party?) is an expression that you often hear.  In this heady, sensuous atmosphere, the sounds of meringue, salsa or vallenato are sure to propel your dancing feet into action. For a night of great music and food head to Andrés D.C., a fusion of a restaurant and night club or for the legendary Andrés Carne de Res, in Chia, outside the city. 

Bogotá is an intoxicating mix of contrasts. It’s a city that whisks you up on a whirlwind, engulfs you in its giddy spin and before you know it, you are completely seduced by its charm. 

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

I stayed at the Charleston Casa Medina,Bogotá, (hotelcharlestoncasamedina.devsite-1.com)  and flew with Iberia via Madrid 

Last Frontiers (lastfrontiers.com) offers tailor-made holidays throughout Latin America including Colombia

For more information about Colombia visit proexport.com.co

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist