Destination Madeira

A wild rocky coastline, mountains peppered with trees that disappear into a hazy mist, lush valleys, white houses with red roofs wedged into the hillsides, gardens ablaze with flowers in a riot of colour and the ancient Laurissilva Forest, the tiny subtropical island of Madeira has scenery that would impress even the hardest of hearts.   

Madeira, discovered in 1419 by Portuguese explorers, is 57km (35miles) long and 22km (14 miles) wide. It is the main island of the Portuguese archipelago that juts out from the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Africa. 

Once regarded as the destination of choice for British seniors, it has reinvented itself as the go-to spot for a younger, sophisticated traveller. And it is easy to see why they have been beguiled by this island that radiates calm and comfort. From the moment I arrived, I felt every ounce of stress I had imported from London being squeezed out of my body. 

All rights reserved by Madeira Islands Tourism

There is no chance of being bored here. Madeira has all the key ingredients to make the perfect holiday. From lazing by the pool, to jeep safaris, to paragliding and mountain climbing, Madeira has plenty to help you recharge your batteries. You will also find some great spas to slip off to for a massage and, of course, you can’t leave without trying Madeira wine. It is almost compulsory to visit Blandy’s Wine Lodge for a tour and tasting. 

Just don’t expect sandy beaches. Due to ancient volcanic activity, the beaches, except for the man-made ones, are mostly pebble-dashed and black sand.

A highlight of a trip to Madeira Island is a levada walk. These trails besides centuries-old irrigation canals, will take you through a spectacular landscape interspersed with waterfalls and dotted with orchids and other tropical plants.  

Mountains of Madeira

The best way to see Funchal, the capital is to take the cable car. As we made our way to Monte, Funchal Bay disappeared as we left the sun behind and headed straight into the clouds. This was my first experience of one of the islands myriad of microclimates.

You have to come down from Monte in a “wicker sledge” These baskets resemble go-karts. Two drivers (carreiros) wearing boots with thick rubber soles that they use as breaks, run alongside as you whisk down the sloping narrow winding streets.

These guys step on to the toboggan when needs be to keep it balanced. Maybe not for the faint-hearted, especially, if like when I did it, the heavens had opened. A few mutterings of “Santa Maria” from the drivers did cause my companion and I to echange worrying looks. The ride certainly got the adrenalin flowing. It is the stuff memories are made of. 

The stuff memories are made of

While hip boutique hotels such as the award-winning Vine Hotel (the food is delicious) are winning over the style mavens, old Madeira still flourishes, especially at Reid's Palace, Madeira’s grande-dame hotel. Afternoon tea at on the veranda overlooking tropical gardens and the ocean is something of an institution on the island.  

Reid’s has been host to the great and the good for years, attracting the likes of Empress Elizabeth 1 of Austria, George Bernard Shaw and Winston Churchill, who after he took up his paintbrushes in Madeira enticed other Brits to experience the island’s “ therapeutic benefits”.

The archipelago has been attracting international travellers for centuries including Christopher Columbus who married a Maderian girl as well as Brazilian empresses and British royalty. Fans of the footballer Cristiano Ronaldo will know he was born here.

If you want a glimpse into the past, you can also stay at one of the Quintas of Madeira. Former country house estates of princes and nobles, these properties have different architectural styles ranging from contemporary to rustic.

Reid's Palace
© Belmond

My base was the five-star Quintinha São João Hotel, set in serene gardens. It felt like staying in a friend’s old manor. It melds private home intimacy and modern intrusions perfectly.

Eating in Madeira is a real treat for your taste buds. Everything is so fresh and bursting with flavour as most of the fruit and vegetables are grown locally. All the cultures that have passed through the islands over the centuries have left their mark on its cuisine. Seafood is big and you will be spoilt for choice for venues.

The Vila do Peixe is a traditional restaurant that dishes up great views as well some succulent fish. Riso has an imaginative take on risotto which you can enjoy while listening to the waves crash against the cliffs. The Restaurante Do Forte, in the XVII century São Tiago fortress, reputed to be one of Funchal’s finest, has plenty of dishes to entice you.

It was Friday night and the old town was pulsating with energy. The young and young at heart spilled out on to the pavements, reminiscent of London’s Soho on a summer’s night.

Before returning to the hotel, we decided to take a walk on Madeira’s wilder side. We headed to Venda Velha, a bar near the fort, for a Poncha, a traditional alcoholic drink made from sugar cane rum, honey, lemon and Madeira wine.  Which I have to say is just like Madeira itself, rather moreish.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

TAP Portugal has a daily flight from London Heathrow to Madeira. For further information, visit flytap.com

 

Quintinha São João Hotel, Rua da Levada de São João, 4, Madeira, 9000-191 Funchal is on the outskirts of the city centre of Funchal (1.5km), in a lovely residential area. For more info visit quintinhasaojoao.com

To learn more about Madeira go to  visitportugal.com and visitmadeira.pt


First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist
 

Destination Beja, Alentejo, Portugal

Climbing up Beja’s Castle’s Keep was well worth the effort. Stretched out before me were endless plains of golden wheat punctuated by the occasional whitewashed house. As the sun bathed the picture-perfect landscape with a heartening glow, I took some time to savour my surroundings.

The castle, which has played an important part in defending Portugal’s borders and is now the Beja’s landmark, dates back to the Romans and, over the centuries, has been modified by its varying occupants. The Keep, arguably the most outstanding feature, said to be the highest in the Iberian Peninsula, was built for Dom Dinis, King of Portugal in the 13^th century.  

Beja, once called Pax Julia, was founded by Julius Caesar and was declared the regional capital. Renamed by the Moors, this city is saturated in history. Archaeological evidence shows that Beja was inhabited since the Bronze Age and probably the pace of life has not altered much since then. If delving into yesteryear is your bag, you will find lovely little churches such as the Santo Amaro which has some parts presumed to date back to the 6^th century as well as museums to enlighten you.  

Beja’s Castle’s Keep

Near to the castle are the cathedral and the spectacular Convent of Our Lady of Conception (Nossa Senhora da Conceição), where years ago nuns from Portugal’s noblest families concocted amazing types of sweets. Their legacy lives on and you can enjoy their confectionery made according to these ancient recipes in many restaurants. 

Decked out in carved wood and gold leaf, with cloisters decorated in beautiful centuries-old tiles - “azulejos”, this convent, now a museum, houses one of Portugal’s most important Visigothic collections. 

As I tried to find the castle I got lost wandering around a labyrinth of narrow cobbled medieval streets. But, I found plenty of helpful, happy people who pointed me in the right direction and I made some great discoveries such as Rua Dr Afonso Costa, known as the shopping street, which has a plethora of buildings to gaze at. Not to be missed is the double window, at number 38, adorned with traditional Islamic and Christian motifs. Although it was put in its current location at the end of the 19^th century, it is believed that it dates back to the 16^th century and comes from an old convent.   

Decked out in carved wood and gold leaf

Beja-museu REG©TVB
Courtesy of  Turismo de Portugal

In some ways you feel as if Beja has been cocooned in an ancient time warp. If it were not for some lovely boutiques and lively cafés, you could easily imagine that you have been transported back in time to when life was not a race against the clock.

My base was the Pousada de Beja, São Francisco, which started out life centuries ago as a Franciscan monastery and is now a luxury hotel run with easy charm. It manages to balance traditional features of the old building with 21^st century necessities. You can easily while away a couple of hours here exploring. It also has its own Gothic chapel.

The real magic of Beja

The restaurant, once the refectory, with high vaulted ceilings, dishes up local cuisine that gives your taste buds a real treat whether you want a bowl of soup, or something more elaborate like the lamb or fish. And being in the Alentejo, renowned for its wines, you know that there were going to be some rather special tipples to relish.

A trip to Beja is like taking a glance into another world. It is a place where strangers say “Bom dia!” when they bump into you – a completely different culture experience from London.  It is also too easy to see why people like living here. There is a quality of life that is hard to imagine exists when you come from a big city. Magnificent in its simplicity, the past fuses with the future. And that is the real magic of Beja.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

TAP Portugal (flytap.com) flies from Manchester, London Heathrow and Gatwick to Lisbon frequently. For best deals visit website

Pousada de Beja, São Francisco
Largo D. Nuno Álvares Pereira
7801-901, Beja, tel: (+351) 284 313 580
For more info and promotional rates visit pousadas.pt

For more info on Alentejo visit Turismo do Alentejo, visitalentejo.pt/en

For more info on Portugal go to visitportugal.com/en

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist