Wednesday 31 January 2018

Destination Reykjavik and beyond, Iceland




A green light twinkled in the dark night sky giving it an eerie glow. In a matter of minutes it had been joined by others and the show began. The Northern Lights were dancing in front of my eyes. So beautiful, so surreal. It was all I had dreamt about. Uplifting and magical, I felt so lucky that the elusive lights had performed for me.

“Here is your present, birthday girl”, exuded my guide from Superjeep, the tour company that specialises in Northern Lights Jeep Tours. “I told you I would arrange for the Aurora Borealis to appear for you. Now we will go to another place to see them better,” he said.



Northern Lights
Courtesy of Superjeep



Back in the jeep, we set off ready for Act II of the Northern Lights or the Aurora Borealis. Bands of green and purple tinged with pink were skipping above me. Sipping hot chocolate to ward off the cold, I drank in the views. It was a birthday that I will never forget.

The Northern Lights are said to be formed when electrically-charged particles from the sun, driven by the Solar Wind, enter the Earth’s magnetic field and collide with atoms of oxygen and nitrogen. The result is an array of colours and formations. To see them had been on my bucket list for a while. As far as travel experiences go, and I have had quite a few, this is hard to beat. 



Gullfoss



When you have such a rapturous start to a trip you wonder where you can go from there. Luckily, Iceland was up for the challenge. The land of fire and ice was bursting with wonders to keep me on a high. From elves – though I never saw any – to feisty geysers to spirited volcanoes and sulphur scents, Iceland dishes up quite a menu.  

Thingvellir National Park would win a beauty contest for its exceptional good looks. Straddling the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, it is also the embodiment of Icelandic history.
Here in AD930, reputedly, the oldest existing parliament in the world first assembled. Thingvellir is held dearly in the hearts of the Icelandic people as it is considered to be the birthplace of the nation. 




Strokkur blasting water 30 metres




Nestled in an active volcanic area surrounded by mountains on three sides, and crossed by the river Öxará, are some incredible rock formations, grass-covered lava fields and stunning waterfalls. Lake Thingvallavatn sits at its southern end. You get the feeling as you explore that the landscape has not changed much over thousands of years. 

In Iceland the weather can change in an instant. It had started windy and rainy, but the sun made a timely appearance as we arrived at Gullfoss. The Golden Waterfall, as its name translates, is one of Iceland’s most spectacular waterfalls. As a rainbow flicked over the plummeting water all I could do was be humbled by Mother Nature’s creativity and stare at is magnificence. 


 

The Blue Lagoon




She was about to show us  more of her genius a little later as we arrived at the Geysir Hot Spring Area in time to see the Strokkur blasting water 30 metres (100 feet) into the air as hot mud pools bubbled around us.

While the Blue Lagoon is a must on most people’s to-do list, I found it, although worth seeing, a bit of a tourist trap and feel there are better geothermal spas in the country to visit. However if time is short, go as it is a unique experience.




Skogáfoss 



Driving through the ever-changing spectacular landscape of the south of Iceland was like travelling through a film set. From amazing rocky formations to snow-capped volcanoes and glaciers, this was drama at its best.

The Skogáfoss Waterfall was magnificent as was the Walking Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, so called because you can walk behind it. The Eyjafjallajökull volcano responsible for halting air traffic across Europe a few years ago was now quiet.



From amazing rocky formations to snow-capped volcanoes and glaciers, this was drama at its best




Another star was the volcanic black pebble sand beach of Reynisfjara. It may be one of the country’s top tourist attractions but the roaring waves do not just make an empty sound, they are dangerous so take care. 

Iceland’s capital Reykjavik, where I was based, has a lovely small town feel with a real heart. Only a few skyscrapers punctuate the skyline and traffic jams are a rarity.

Over half of the population of the country lives here. When you think that there are about 334,000 people in the country, it is indeed small. It may be a cold, tiny country but its people certainly radiate an exceptional warm and welcome visitors with open arms.




Another star was the volcanic black pebble sand beach of Reynisfjara



This is where companies should send people to learn about customer service. It was excellent in every restaurant, café and shop I went into. And everybody speaks exceptional English and exudes passion about their country.

The vibrant city, which you can walk around in a few hours, has plenty of museums, galleries and theatres if you want a dose of culture. There are beautiful public squares to relax in, or take an invigorating walk along the waterfront and the harbour where you will find one of Iceland’s significant landmarks, the Harpa, an impressive structure and home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra.




City Hall, Reykjavik



Snuggled amidst the tourist shops in the main shopping drag are lovely small boutiques specialising in Icelandic design. For wonderful views of the capital head to the striking Hallgrimskirkja church, the city’s renowned landmark which took 41 years to build.

Reykjavik’s food scene is exciting. Whether you want to try fermented shark, meat soup or Icelandic fish and chips you will find plenty of great restaurants. As they mainly use local fresh ingredients your taste buds will have a sensory treat. While it is expensive it is value for money. Unlike so many restaurants in the UK that serve bland food, every mouthful I had there was a culinary experience. 




Reykjavik Harbour




At the Food Cellar, housed in a 160-year-old building, serenaded by a piano player, I had cod that was so succulent it were as if I tasted the fish for the first time. I could see why this is classed as one of Reykjavik’s finest.  Another fabulous place was Messine. This cosy, atmospheric restaurant serves up generous portions of superb sizzling fish in a cast iron pan. 

Coming out of Messine, I looked up at the night sky and there were the Northern Lights making their appearance one more time. A fitting end to a very special trip.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

I booked through Regent Holidays (regent-holidays.co.uk) A great company to book with. My consultant, Jane was knowledgeable, knew about Iceland and was extremely caring. She ensured that I got the right holiday for me

I travelled with Iceland Air

I stayed at the Borg. A lovely, small, luxury Art Deco hotel in the heart of Reykjavik whose neighbours include the Houses of Parliament








Tuesday 30 January 2018

Checking into the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, Bellagio, Lake Como




Walk through the door of the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni and you leave the 21st century behind you.

Harking back to a bygone era, this hotel shrouded in beauty and rustic romance sits proudly in Bellagio on Italy’s Lake Como. Built as a holiday villa for an aristocratic Milanese family in the mid-19th century the neoclassical building opened as a hotel in 1873. 

Murano chandeliers, ceilings embellished with frescoes, marble columns and staircases as well as numerous examples of trompe l’oeil give you a flavour of what it would be like to peel back the centuries.

If you want to leave the rat race behind and enjoy a languid pace of life in the Italian sun you should check into the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. It is the perfect retreat for five-star R&R.






Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, Bellagio, Lake Como




There are 95 rooms and suites, all different sizes and styled classically. My spacious room, decked out lavishly and resolutely traditional, was discreetly layered with essential modern sophistications. Despite it being grand this family-owned hotel has a warm and homely feel to it. 

The staff are friendly and the service is impeccable. There is a personal touch which so many establishments in this day and age seem to have forgotten. This luxury hotel understands its clientele. 

Breakfast is served in an elaborate mirrored room adorned with gold leaf that could have jumped out straight from a set of the TV series Versailles. It is a wonderful way to start the day! 





Hall




If a restaurant having a Michelin star is what you hanker for on holiday, you can try out the Mistral where live music serenades you. I love Mediterranean cuisine so I plumped for La Goletta, which is less formal. 

Sitting outside by the lake watching the sun retire for the day, the lights twinkling on the mountains that tower above the lake, had me entranced. 

The food equalled the setting. The kitchen insists on using good quality produce and this came through with every mouthful. I started with the octopus salad with dried tomatoes and black olives which was delicious. To follow I chose the grilled mixed lake and sea fish accompanied by mixed vegetables that went down a treat. 




Lounge



Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni has an impressive wine list. Staying in a hotel of this stature you would expect the hotel to serve up a good house wine and I was not disappointed. I had a glass of prosecco, which was not at all sweet as some can be, as an aperitif and a glass of rosé with my meal. Both excellent.   

Not to have ice cream in Italy would be sacrilege so I indulged in vanilla and chocolate with a scoop of mango sorbet. If only I could always eat out so well!

As my stay in Bellagio was short I did not have enough time to make the most of the hotel’s spa and indoor and outdoor pools. Lake Como and its pretty towns were calling out and they won.

Having to say good-bye to the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni was sad. I could have stayed at this grande-dame for ever!

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

British Airways flies to Milan (Malpensa Airport), Visit britishairways.com to book and for the cheapest rates

Take a short train ride from Milan to Como (for times visit trenitalia.com) and take either the slow boat (2 hours) to Bellagio or the hydrofoil (1 hour). Alternatively, take a train to Varenna and take the ferry from there

For more information about the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni and for best rates visit villaserbelloni.com

For tourist information about Lake Como visit lakecomo.it

Or call IAT in Como phone 031/269712 lakecomo@tin.it, Bellagio 031/950204 prombell@tin.it  (You can also visit Promobellagio’s website bellagiolakecomo.com) and Menaggio phone 0344/32924 infomenaggio@tiscali.it

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist










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