Chilean Patagonia

 

The Patagonian Ice Fields

 

Why you should go
Patagonia encompasses the green of Chile and the pampas country of Argentina. Vast and remote, this southernmost point of South America will stop you in your tracks with its stunning raw beauty.

Glaciers thrusting into emerald-green lakes, the Andes punching the clouds, lush forests surrounding untamed fjords, plus amazing wildlife make a trip to Chilean Patagonia the adventure of a lifetime. 

 Patagonia

 

On the journey
Flying from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas is one of the best scenic flights you will ever take – providing you get a clear day. Views of the Andes are superb. What really makes this an outstanding trip is flying over the Patagonian Ice Fields. They are said to be the largest expanse of ice in the southern hemisphere outside Antarctica. The Northern Ice Field, entirely in Chile, is smaller than the Southern Ice Field that spreads into Argentina.

Never-ending ice, lakes expanding into glaciers, deeply-carved fjords are so incredible. You can spend the three-and-a-half-hour flight looking out of the window.

Sunrise over Last Hope Sound

 

Where to start
Puerto Natales (approximately a three-hour drive from the airport in Puerto Arenas) is a former fishing port on the shores of the Seno Última Esperanza (Last Hope Sound) and is one of the main gateways to the renowned Parque Nacional Torres del Paine.

This quaint town offering stunning views of the mountains and sound gives you a taste of life in Patagonia. Be sure to get up early and see the sun rise over the Seno Última Esperanza flanked by Monte Balmaceda and other snow-capped peaks. It is beautiful.

From here you can begin your drive to Torres del Paine. Along the way stop to savour the amazing scenery and take pictures of condors and guanacos (related to camels) dotted along the route. 






 

The Cuernos del Paine and Salte Grande

Torres del Paine
Even the most jaded traveller will be impressed by this national park, part of Unesco’s Biosphere Reserve. The imposing mountain range, Cordillera Paine, turquoise lakes, waterfalls and icebergs are just some of the marvels awaiting you.

Highlights
Wonders include views of the Cuernos del Paine, granite peaks that resemble horns appear to be piercing the sky.

Laguna Amarga is the place to go for a wonderful view of the Torres del Paine mountains. You may also catch a glimpse of a flamingo or two.

Lago Nordensjöld is noted for its beautiful emerald-coloured waters. They pour through into the impressive Salte Grande (Grand Waterfall) ending in Lago Pehoé.

Lago Pehoé, a glistening jewel flanked by the Torres del Paine mountain range is a great location to take in the Cuernos del Paine (Horns of Paine). Drive along the shores of the lake until you reach Salto Chico (Little Waterfall). Take a stroll through an old lenga forest.

Lago Grey is another lovely lake. You will see chunks of ice from the renowned Grey Glacier.

Sunrise over Lake Grey

Be astounded by the wonder that is Grey Glacier

Sitting in a glacial lake, this massive ice construction is a work of beauty. The glacier is, reputedly, 6km (3.73 miles) wide and over 30m (100 feet) high. A piece of land (nunatak) divides the glacier in two forming an island in the middle. Take a three-hour boat trip and cruise up the deep-grey waters of the lake towards this mighty wonder. Pieces regularly break off from the glacier, which is currently in retreat, forming huge icebergs. To capture its magnificence in a photograph is virtually impossible.

Grey Glacier

Before leaving Patagonia
Visit a traditional Patagonian estancia. A good one is Estancia Cerro Negro (Black Hill Ranch) which covers approximately 14, 800 acres of pampas. It belongs to a Croatian family who came to Chile in the early 1900s, the pioneer era of sheep farming. 

See the shepherds and their dogs at work herding their flocks. Watch sheep being sheared and cattle grazing before enjoying a typical lunch of lamb which has been roasted over an open fire. After lunch look around the old ranch house, now a museum. 

Huge icebergs

 

Take a tour of Punta Arenas, gateway to Antarctica
Enjoy the spectacular view of the Strait of Magellan and Chile’s southernmost city from the hill, Cerro de la Cruce. Go to Plaza Muñoz Gamero surrounded by grand mansions, once home of former pioneers. At its heart is a statue of the Portuguese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan.

Stroll along the coast
Take an invigorating walk along the coast to see the Costanera del Estrecho, the monument of an arriving ship. There is a café en route in case you need to refuel.

If you have time visit Isla Magdalena
This island is renowned for its penguins.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

LATAM Airlines (latam.com) flies from Santiago to Puenta Arenas  

Stay
Puerto Natales
HotelCostAustralis (hotelcostaustralis.com). The best thing about this hotel is the view of the Patagonian Andes and the Seno Última Esperanza

Torres del Paine

Hotel Lago Grey (lagogrey.com). A lovely hotel that overlooks Lago Grey and its glacier. Ensure you book a superior lake/glacier view.

Punta Arenas
Hotel Cabo de Hornos (hotelcabodehornos.com). Good position in the heart of Punta Arenas. Rooms vary in standard.