Wednesday 23 October 2019

The Chilean Lake District, Chile

Volcán Osorno (snow-capped) and Calbuco, and Lago Llanquihue


 

Why you should go
Snow-dusted volcanoes, crystal clear lakes, stunning waterfalls, lush
vegetation and quaint villages ... need I go on?

Where is it?
The Chilean Lake District stretches from Puerto Montt in the south to Temuco in the north.

Where to base yourself
Sitting on the shores of Lake Llanquihue and watched over by the foreboding Osorno and Calbuco Volcanoes, Puerto Varas is a pretty lakeside town. A short drive from Puerto Montt, it has a Germanic feel, a legacy of the settlers who started to come here in the mid-1800s, laced with Chilean spice. 





The Puntiagudo Volcano, and  Saltos de Petrohue (Petrohue Rapids)



What to do
A foodie haven, it has some lovely restaurants. Casavaldés should be top of your list to try if you like seafood. And as well as great food and good service, you get a stunning view of the lake. In town you will find some cute boutiques to mooch around. There are also some European-styled cake shops that will tempt you.

Walking around the lake is, arguably, the best activity to do here. Check out the beautiful squares filled with roses.

Visit Petrohué Falls, Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park
Take a drive along the edge of Lake Llanquihue to reach the Petrohué Falls (Saltos del Petrohué) in Chile’s oldest park. These rapids and waterfalls were formed many years ago. The waters cascading over the hard basaltic lava, which emanated from the Osorno Volcano lurking in the background, is magical.




Lago Todo los Santos


 
Take a cruise on the Lago Todo los Santos, Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park, also named the Emerald Lake, as its waters are so clear and green (dependent on the light). It was given this name by the Jesuits from Europe who discovered it on All Saints Day in 1670. The lake is surrounded by steep mountains, and there are stunning views of three magnificent volcanoes, the Osorno to the west, the Puntiagudo in the north and to the east El Tronador. The scenery is simply amazing.



Taking a walk on Osorno Volcano



Get up close and personal with the Osorno Volcano, by the shore of Lake Llanquihue
Take a walk on the surface of this magnificent volcano. This stratovolcano is approximately 2,660 metres high (8.727 feet). The views of the Calbuco, Antillanca and Tronador with the Andes soaring sky-high behind is special.

You can take the chair lift to various stops. The first one is at a height
of 1,450 metres (4,757 feet).

By Daralyn Danns


Getting there
Fly from Santiago de Chile to Puerto Montt. For details visit latam.com Latam fly to Santiago from London via São Paulo, Brazil. Alternatively, you can fly from London directly with British Airways britishairways.com

Stay at Hotel Cumbres Puerto Varas, cumbrespuertovaras.com



Friday 6 September 2019

Valparaíso, Chile


Exploding with bohemian charm



 


Why you should go
Chile’s second largest city, Valparaíso is a vibrant hillside port with a story to tell. A Unesco World Heritage site, it is gritty yet edgy. Colourful and exploding with bohemian charm, the city spreads across some 40 or more hills making it look like an amphitheatre with a sea view.

History
Founded in 1536, it has been plundered by pirates, hit by storms and ravaged by earthquakes. A massive one in 1906 destroyed most of the city so it had to be rebuilt. Valparaíso’s heyday was in the 19th century. The opening of the Panama Canal ended its time as a thriving port. But, Valpo, as the locals call it, has since reinvented itself as a tourist destination.





Valpo today






Be inspired
Valparaíso has long been the inspiration of artists and poets. Visit La Sebastiana, the former home of the Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. Now a museum, it has some interesting paintings, old maps and unusual relics to see.







The Edificio Armada de Chile dominates the square




Enjoy a stroll

Take a leisurely walk along the bustling waterfront. Visit Plaza Sotomayor to see the Monumento a los Héroes de Iquique, a memorial dedicated to the seamen who lost their lives during the War of the Pacific. The Edificio Armada de Chile dominates the square. While away hours exploring the city’s narrow streets.





Street art




Street art
Valparaíso has gained itself the reputation of having some of the best graffiti in South America. You will see some eye-catching murals as you discover the city. Pause to take in the brightly-coloured houses that line the cobbled streets.




The Ascensor Artilleria




Take a ride

The best way to get around this hilly city is to go on one of its many funiculars or lifts. In 1883 it was decided to give the inhabitants of Valparaíso a new means of transport. Climbing lots of stairs to go to and from work was exhausting. Today only a few of the original 30 “ascensores” are in operation. The Ascensor Artillería, one of the oldest, gives you a terrific view of the bay as you ride up the hill.







Cerro Alegre



 




Soak up the atmosphere
Cerro Alegre is the place to go to see art happening. From musicians to people reading poetry, it is where tourists and locals mingle side by side. It portrays a flavour of the mainly German and British immigrants that came to Valparaíso in the 18th century. You will find great bars and restaurants in this area. If you love seafood you are in for a treat. Wash it down with a glass of Chilean wine or a pisco sour.

Another tourist hotspot is Cerro Concepción. You find plenty of places where you can eat and take in the view of the bay. There are also some cute artisan boutiques to mooch around.

Go to the beach
Often called the garden city because of its beautiful parks, Viña del Mar’s main attraction is the beach. High-rises and mansions from a bygone era line the palm-tree boulevards. Take a day trip from Santiago or from Valparaíso.

By Daralyn Danns



Getting there
Valparaíso is an hour-and-a-half journey from Santiago de Chile. You can take a bus (there are a couple of stops within Santiago but you may find it quicker to go straight to the terminus at Pajaritos) or taxi. There are also guided tours. Ask your concierge.



Saturday 10 August 2019

Santiago de Chile



Why you should go

Sanitago de Chile crackles with energy and vibrancy
The green and leafy capital of this narrow country (average width 110 miles or 177 kilometres) might not be teeming with sights like London, but the sum of its parts makes this modern and sophisticated city a place worth visiting.

Where is it?
Nestled in a valley, snow-capped peaks of the Andes to the east provide Santiago de Chile with a stunning setting.













Best views
Go on a clear day and see an amazing 360-degree view of Santiago from a height of 300 meters at the Sky Costanera. It is said to be the tallest building in South America.

Cerro Santa Lucia, a park built on a hill in the centre, is one of the stand-out features of the city. This remnant of a volcano millions of years old was used by the conquistadors as a lookout point and is where the birth of Santiago was declared by Pedro de Valdivia in 1541. It became a park in 1872.




Take a history lesson


Take a history lesson
Plaza de Almas (square of weapons), the city’s original centre and still its beating heart and soul, is surrounded by beautiful buildings including the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, the Central Post Office and the Royal Palace, home to the National History Museum. Palm trees, fountains and statues add to its unique charm.

Carry on walking to La Moneda Palace and you will pass more great architecture including the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art.







La Moneda Palace (Palacio de La Moneda)
The former mint is now the seat of the president. It still bears the scars of the 1973 military coup when President Salvador Allende was overthrown and General Augusto Pinochet Ugarte assumed power and established a military dictatorship. The inner courtyards are open to visitors. Tours of the palace are available but you must book at least a week in advance.

Mercado Central
This colourful market selling fish, fruit, vegetables and flowers
is popular with locals and tourists and is a nice spot for lunch.




 
Sunset over the Andes



 

Take in a museum
If you have only time to take in one museum, make it the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino. Renowned for its collections of pre-Colombian art and artefacts from all over Latin America, you will not be disappointed.

Enjoy Santiago’s foodie scene in Barrio Lastarria
Each of Santiago’s neighbourhoods has its own distinct character and charm. With restaurants and bars plus boutiques in which to mooch around, this is a fascinating place to while away a couple of hours. Museums, theatres and galleries are also to be found here. A great place for people-watching.




Iglesia de San Francisco

 


Discover a piece of Europe in Barrio Paris Londres
This small quaint area near Iglesia de San Francisco is renowned for its colonial buildings. It is a pleasant stroll along the narrow cobble-stoned streets.

Learn about Chilean Wine and taste a glass or two
Viña Undurraga, in the Maipo Valley, was founded by Don Francisco Undurraga in 1885. One of the founders of Chile’s wine industry, he brought plants to the country from France and Germany and began producing wines such as cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and riesling. 

Take a guided tour and see how wine is made and, of course, taste a glass or two! For more information visit
undurraga.cl

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there
British Airways flies direct to Santiago. However, if you are travelling around the country you will get a much better deal booking with latam.com but you will have to change planes in São Paulo. The plus side is that it breaks the journey and, overall, the airline’s service is good

Stay
I stayed at the five-star Hotel Plaza San Francisco (plazasanfrancisco.cl). The location is excellent and the service good.  There is marked difference between the levels of rooms, so go for a superior one

I booked through Cox & Kings. Once a great company, I found the standards have dropped considerably over the years and was disappointed with the quality of the hotel rooms and its overall service




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