The glittering clear turquoise waters seemed to go on
forever. Lush forests of kauri trees and sandy beaches carpeted the array of
desolate islands that we cruised by. Dolphins keen to perform for their
audience put on an amazing show keeping us entertained as we sailed around the
Bay of Islands en route
to the Cape Brett Lighthouse.
A highlight of the cruise had to be the fabled Hole in the
Rock. The hole reminded me of an entrance to a cave. Reputedly, Māori warriors
would paddle their canoes through the hole in the belief that it would bring
them good luck in battle.
It is easy to see why this region is a top draw in New
Zealand. It is a magical mix of stunning vistas, wildlife and colonial history.
Bay Of Islands |
Named by Captain James Cook, this was where the first Europeans
settled. On February 6 1840 the Treaty of Waitangi, an agreement between the
British Government and the Māori chiefs for the country to become a British
Colony, was signed. To this day the treaty is the foundation of race relations
in New Zealand.
Waitangi is not only the country’s most important historical
site, it is also one of its most beautiful. As I stood looking over the Bay of Islands a rainbow appeared. It
was one of those times when you
have to pinch yourself to ensure that you are not imagining it.
Hole in the Rock |
After our four-hour cruise we headed to Russell, a quaint
small town where you feel that time has stood still. Maybe that is because the
town's streets have stayed true to the original layout and names from 1843.
This was where the first European settled. It was also New Zealand’s first sea
port and New Zealand's first capital in nearby Okiato.
Kororāreka, as it was formerly called, grew up due to trade
with the ships that came from America and Europe. It quickly developed into a
lawless community and “how sweet is the penguin” as its name translates became
known as the Hell Hole of the Pacific.
Treaty of Waitangi was signed here |
Sitting on the terrace of the Duke of Marlborough Hotel,
enjoying a delicious lunch, while devouring the harbour views, I reckoned that sailors and traders who came
here in the 19th century would be shocked to find the place that
they knew has transformed into a refined holiday town that is awash with great
restaurants and cute boutiques.
Later I
took a leisurely stroll around the place, stopping at the Catholic Mission
‘Pompallier’, the country’s oldest surviving Roman Catholic building and now a
working museum.
At the Christ Church, the oldest existing church in
New Zealand, I saw musket ball holes from the New Zealand Land Wars,
a stark reminder that this tranquil place was not always so.
Russell, a quaint small town where you feel that time has stood still |
The hours whizzed by and soon it was time to take the ferry
back to Paihia. This is a great place to make your base while visiting the area
as it is easy to get around from here and as it is a reasonably-sized town, the
facilities are good.
For adrenalin seekers you will find plenty of water sports
to indulge in. For the less energetic you can take walks along the secluded
beaches or head out to see the Haruru Falls or take a fishing trip.
The Bay of Islands is a sub-tropical paradise. It is the
ideal place to unwind after a tour of New Zealand as this really is far from
the madding crowd.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Which city you fly into in New Zealand will depend on where
your tour starts from and therefore, which airline you choose. Highly
recommended are Cathay Pacific cathaypacific.com
and qantas.com
The service and inflight experience is spot on. Ensure that the flight you book
is operated by the company and not just code-sharing
The tour was part of the Grand Pacific Ultimate Small Group
Tours which I booked through Trailfinders (trailfinders.com) as I did the flights
The advantage of travelling aboard the Ultimate Coach is
that instead of carrying the normal 48 passengers, it only carries 20. You sit
in comfort in leather fully-reclining seats so no neck ache at the end of a
long day. (Distances are vast in New Zealand.) There is plenty of personal
storage. It is much easier being in a small group, no hanging around waiting
for people, no long queues for the loos, overall much cosier
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