The onslaught of motorbikes was, to say the least, overwhelming. It
appeared evident that they did not stop for pedestrians even at the crossing.
As I stood wondering how I was going to get to the other side a Vietnamese
lady, who was passing with her husband, took hold of my hand. The three of us
got to the other side in one piece.
I had just arrived in Ho Chi Minh City and realised that motorbikes are
king here. I learned quickly that you head straight into the traffic. You do
not stop or hesitate and the bikes will work around you.
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| The onslaught of motorbikes was, to say the least, overwhelming |
Hot and humid, mad and chaotic, Vietnam’s largest city crackles with
energy and dynamism. Previously known as Saigon (though many locals still call
it that), it is a stark contrast of two worlds, the old and the new.
Sleek modern high-rises punch the sky. Chic shopping malls stocked with
the usual global brands are a sign that the 21st century has arrived
here. While traditional markets attract locals and tourists. Colonial architecture
and tree-lined boulevards are a sharp reminder of Saigon being a French colony.
Ornate temples compete to grab your undivided attention.
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| Civil Hall and statue of Ho Chi Minh |
Modernity has staked its claim too in Ho Chi Minh City. Buildings have
rapidly sprung up and it has seen fast economic growth.
Now the city comprises 19 districts, entwined in the centre by the
Saigon River. Most tourists never leave district 1 as this is where the action
is.
I started my tour of the city’s landmarks at the Reunification Palace. This
concrete 1960s-styled building witnessed the tanks of the North Vietnamese Army
crashing through its gates in April 1975. The Vietnam War was over and the
communists were the victors, the country was united. And Saigon was no
more.
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| Reunification Palace |
The palace is a maze of tunnels and secret rooms. You can see the war
command centre with and old communication equipment. Though the palace is set
in pretty gardens and still used for events, the echoing of 1975 coming from
the walls is almost deafening.
A reminder of colonial times is the Central Post Office, a rather grand
19th-century building with beautifully-designed marble floors and
elaborate furnishings. It is still a functioning post office but the old
phone boxes are now home to modern technology. A large picture of Ho Chi
Minh, a revered figure, watching over you, reminds you that you are in Vietnam.
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| The Post Office |
Notre Dame Cathedral is another architectural star from the colonial
period. After taking a look, we went to the lively Ben Thanh Market. Jammed
with food stalls and all sorts of souvenirs, this is a place where your
bargaining skills will be put to the test.
Watching a water puppet show is a must while in the country. Puppets perform on
a stage of water and tell stories of Vietnamese folklore with a traditional
music accompaniment.
After the performance at the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre, some
friends and I took a cyclo tour through streets decorated in fairy
lights up to the Saigon Opera House, an imposing sight on Lam Son Square.
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| Modernity has staked its claim too in Ho Chi Minh City |
On one side of the square is the Hotel Continental, synonymous with
writer Graham Greene and on the other is the Hotel Caravelle, whose bar was
frequented by foreign correspondents during the Vietnam War.
The City Hall, another wonderful piece of French colonial architecture,
looks amazing at night. It is at the northern end of Nguyen Hue Street, a
walking promenade flanked by other lovely buildings and headed by a statue of
Ho Chi Minh. (He led the Vietnamese National movement for over three decades.)
Saunter along and you will find some great bars and restaurants on your way to
the Saigon River. The best shopping street in the city is nearby.
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| Ben Thanh Market |
To learn a little bit about the offensive launched by the Viet Cong to
liberate South Vietnam, you have to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels, a maze of
underground passageways over an hour’s drive from the city. The tunnel
entrances were so well camouflaged that the guerillas could not be
discovered living in this “village”. You also get to see some of the
booby traps they lay to surprise the American and South Vietnamese soldiers.
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| Booby trap at Cu Chi |
For a complete change of pace, I took a day to discover life
outside the city. Just before embarking on a cruise along the Mekong Delta to
soak up some Vietnamese culture, there was a quick stop at the Jade
Emperor Pagoda, also known as the Turquoise Pagoda.
You are met with a heady scent of incense as you enter this working
temple. Built in the early 1900s to honour the Taoist god, it is has intricate
panels of carved woodwork and figurines. It is considered one of the best in Ho
Chi Minh City.
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| Life on the Mekong Delta |
Sailing along the Mekong Delta was rather special. From floating
markets and houses to rice paddies and temples, this maze of canals,
rivers and streams gave a glimpse into another world.
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| Cao Dai Temple |
At one home we saw coconut candy and rice paste being made. I enjoyed a
scrumptious lunch of local fish in a beautiful tropical garden. I learnt about local
traditions and ended the day with a visit to the opulent Cao Dai Temple. Cao
Daism is said to be a blend of ideas taken from the main religions including
Christianity, Buddhism, Islam, Confucianism, Hinduism and Taoism.
While I was not converted to religion, I did become a fan of Ho Chi
Minh City.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
I flew out with Singapore Airlines singaporeair.com
via Singapore and back with Qatar Airlines (qatarairways.com)
via Doha (Business Class is amazing.)
Stay at the Rex Hotel. For best rates visit rexhotelvietnam.com
The Socialist Republic of Vietnam, as it is officially called, is one
of the few remaining communist countries. Visas are required for holders of UK
passports which you should get before travelling
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