Valparaíso, Chile

Exploding with bohemian charm

 

Why you should go
Chile’s second largest city, Valparaíso is a vibrant hillside port with a story to tell. A Unesco World Heritage site, it is gritty yet edgy. Colourful and exploding with bohemian charm, the city spreads across some 40 or more hills making it look like an amphitheatre with a sea view.

History
Founded in 1536, it has been plundered by pirates, hit by storms and ravaged by earthquakes. A massive one in 1906 destroyed most of the city so it had to be rebuilt. Valparaíso’s heyday was in the 19th century. The opening of the Panama Canal ended its time as a thriving port. But, Valpo, as the locals call it, has since reinvented itself as a tourist destination.

Valpo today

Be inspired
Valparaíso has long been the inspiration of artists and poets. Visit La Sebastiana, the former home of the Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. Now a museum, it has some interesting paintings, old maps and unusual relics to see.

The Edificio Armada de Chile dominates the square

Enjoy a stroll
Take a leisurely walk along the bustling waterfront. Visit Plaza Sotomayor to see the Monumento a los Héroes de Iquique, a memorial dedicated to the seamen who lost their lives during the War of the Pacific. The Edificio Armada de Chile dominates the square. While away hours exploring the city’s narrow streets.

Street art

Street art
Valparaíso has gained itself the reputation of having some of the best graffiti in South America. You will see some eye-catching murals as you discover the city. Pause to take in the brightly-coloured houses that line the cobbled streets.

The Ascensor Artilleria

Take a ride
The best way to get around this hilly city is to go on one of its many funiculars or lifts. In 1883 it was decided to give the inhabitants of Valparaíso a new means of transport. Climbing lots of stairs to go to and from work was exhausting. Today only a few of the original 30 “ascensores” are in operation. The Ascensor Artillería, one of the oldest, gives you a terrific view of the bay as you ride up the hill.

Cerro Alegre

 



Soak up the atmosphere
Cerro Alegre is the place to go to see art happening. From musicians to people reading poetry, it is where tourists and locals mingle side by side. It portrays a flavour of the mainly German and British immigrants that came to Valparaíso in the 18th century. You will find great bars and restaurants in this area. If you love seafood you are in for a treat. Wash it down with a glass of Chilean wine or a pisco sour.

Another tourist hotspot is Cerro Concepción. You find plenty of places where you can eat and take in the view of the bay. There are also some cute artisan boutiques to mooch around.

Go to the beach
Often called the garden city because of its beautiful parks, Viña del Mar’s main attraction is the beach. High-rises and mansions from a bygone era line the palm-tree boulevards. Take a day trip from Santiago or from Valparaíso.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there
Valparaíso is an hour-and-a-half journey from Santiago de Chile. You can take a bus (there are a couple of stops within Santiago but you may find it quicker to go straight to the terminus at Pajaritos) or taxi. There are also guided tours. Ask your concierge.