Valparaíso, Chile

Exploding with bohemian charm

 

Why you should go
Chile’s second largest city, Valparaíso is a vibrant hillside port with a story to tell. A Unesco World Heritage site, it is gritty yet edgy. Colourful and exploding with bohemian charm, the city spreads across some 40 or more hills making it look like an amphitheatre with a sea view.

History
Founded in 1536, it has been plundered by pirates, hit by storms and ravaged by earthquakes. A massive one in 1906 destroyed most of the city so it had to be rebuilt. Valparaíso’s heyday was in the 19th century. The opening of the Panama Canal ended its time as a thriving port. But, Valpo, as the locals call it, has since reinvented itself as a tourist destination.

Valpo today

Be inspired
Valparaíso has long been the inspiration of artists and poets. Visit La Sebastiana, the former home of the Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. Now a museum, it has some interesting paintings, old maps and unusual relics to see.

The Edificio Armada de Chile dominates the square

Enjoy a stroll
Take a leisurely walk along the bustling waterfront. Visit Plaza Sotomayor to see the Monumento a los Héroes de Iquique, a memorial dedicated to the seamen who lost their lives during the War of the Pacific. The Edificio Armada de Chile dominates the square. While away hours exploring the city’s narrow streets.

Street art

Street art
Valparaíso has gained itself the reputation of having some of the best graffiti in South America. You will see some eye-catching murals as you discover the city. Pause to take in the brightly-coloured houses that line the cobbled streets.

The Ascensor Artilleria

Take a ride
The best way to get around this hilly city is to go on one of its many funiculars or lifts. In 1883 it was decided to give the inhabitants of Valparaíso a new means of transport. Climbing lots of stairs to go to and from work was exhausting. Today only a few of the original 30 “ascensores” are in operation. The Ascensor Artillería, one of the oldest, gives you a terrific view of the bay as you ride up the hill.

Cerro Alegre

 



Soak up the atmosphere
Cerro Alegre is the place to go to see art happening. From musicians to people reading poetry, it is where tourists and locals mingle side by side. It portrays a flavour of the mainly German and British immigrants that came to Valparaíso in the 18th century. You will find great bars and restaurants in this area. If you love seafood you are in for a treat. Wash it down with a glass of Chilean wine or a pisco sour.

Another tourist hotspot is Cerro Concepción. You find plenty of places where you can eat and take in the view of the bay. There are also some cute artisan boutiques to mooch around.

Go to the beach
Often called the garden city because of its beautiful parks, Viña del Mar’s main attraction is the beach. High-rises and mansions from a bygone era line the palm-tree boulevards. Take a day trip from Santiago or from Valparaíso.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there
Valparaíso is an hour-and-a-half journey from Santiago de Chile. You can take a bus (there are a couple of stops within Santiago but you may find it quicker to go straight to the terminus at Pajaritos) or taxi. There are also guided tours. Ask your concierge.

Santiago de Chile

Why you should go

Sanitago de Chile crackles with energy and vibrancy

The green and leafy capital of this narrow country (average width 110 miles or 177 kilometres) might not be teeming with sights like London, but the sum of its parts makes this modern and sophisticated city a place worth visiting.

Where is it?

Nestled in a valley, snow-capped peaks of the Andes to the east provide Santiago de Chile with a stunning setting.

Best views

Go on a clear day and see an amazing 360-degree view of Santiago from a height of 300 meters at the Sky Costanera. It is said to be the tallest building in South America.

Cerro Santa Lucia, a park built on a hill in the centre, is one of the stand-out features of the city. This remnant of a volcano millions of years old was used by the conquistadors as a lookout point and is where the birth of Santiago was declared by Pedro de Valdivia in 1541. It became a park in 1872.

Take a history lesson

Take a history lesson

Plaza de Almas (square of weapons), the city’s original centre and still its beating heart and soul, is surrounded by beautiful buildings including the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, the Central Post Office and the Royal Palace, home to the National History Museum. Palm trees, fountains and statues add to its unique charm.

Carry on walking to La Moneda Palace and you will pass more great architecture including the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art.

La Moneda Palace (Palacio de La Moneda)

The former mint is now the seat of the president. It still bears the scars of the 1973 military coup when President Salvador Allende was overthrown and General Augusto Pinochet Ugarte assumed power and established a military dictatorship. The inner courtyards are open to visitors. Tours of the palace are available but you must book at least a week in advance.

Mercado Central
This colourful market selling fish, fruit, vegetables and flowers
is popular with locals and tourists and is a nice spot for lunch.



 

Sunset over the Andes

 

Take in a museum
If you have only time to take in one museum, make it the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino. Renowned for its collections of pre-Colombian art and artefacts from all over Latin America, you will not be disappointed.

Enjoy Santiago’s foodie scene in Barrio Lastarria
Each of Santiago’s neighbourhoods has its own distinct character and charm. With restaurants and bars plus boutiques in which to mooch around, this is a fascinating place to while away a couple of hours. Museums, theatres and galleries are also to be found here. A great place for people-watching.

Iglesia de San Francisco

 

Discover a piece of Europe in Barrio Paris Londres
This small quaint area near Iglesia de San Francisco is renowned for its colonial buildings. It is a pleasant stroll along the narrow cobble-stoned streets.

Learn about Chilean Wine and taste a glass or two
Viña Undurraga, in the Maipo Valley, was founded by Don Francisco Undurraga in 1885. One of the founders of Chile’s wine industry, he brought plants to the country from France and Germany and began producing wines such as cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and riesling. 

Take a guided tour and see how wine is made and, of course, taste a glass or two! For more information visit undurraga.cl

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there
British Airways flies direct to Santiago. However, if you are travelling around the country you will get a much better deal booking with latam.com but you will have to change planes in São Paulo. The plus side is that it breaks the journey and, overall, the airline’s service is good

Stay
I stayed at the five-star Hotel Plaza San Francisco (plazasanfrancisco.cl). The location is excellent and the service good.  There is marked difference between the levels of rooms, so go for a superior one

I booked through Cox & Kings. Once a great company, I found the standards have dropped considerably over the years and was disappointed with the quality of the hotel rooms and its overall service

Rome, Italy

Trevi Fountain
Courtesy of British Airways

 This is not a paid post. Flights provided by BA CityFlyer

Why you should go
If you want to enjoy la dolce vita, head to Rome. The former Roman Empire’s capital, and now that of Italy, is a heady mix of culture, style and history. And, of course, great food and wine not to mention gelato. It is also home to the Eternal City.

Bursting with stories of times gone by
The Romans were renowned for their architectural and engineering prowess. This fascinating city is built on a series of layers. History is written in almost every step you take.

The Vatican, the smallest state in the world and the seat of the papacy
Whatever your religious beliefs this has to be on your itinerary. St Peter’s Basilica is packed with masterpieces. The dome was designed by Michelangelo. He began working on the basilica in 1547. After his death in 1564, his pupil Giacomo Della Porta, directed the work, eventually finishing it in 1590. The pope holds an audience in St Peter’s Square on Wednesday mornings.

Every first-time visitor to Rome should go to the Sistine Chapel. Michaelangelo, between 1508 and 1512, painted the magnificent frescoes on the ceiling.

Inside the Colosseum

The Colosseum (Colosseo), the symbol of Rome
Construction of the largest amphitheatre in the Roman Empire was begun by Emperor Vespasian in AD 72 and took less than 10 years to complete. Gladiator fights took place here as well as the murders of people deemed to be criminals. The techniques that they used to build this beautiful structure are amazing. It also stands as a testament to Roman cruelty.

Over time the popes and nobles used it as a quarry to build palaces and churches. Earthquakes and fires also destroyed the Colosseum so that only a third of the original remained. Extensive restoration works have taken place on this 2000-year-old building and more is being done.

See the ancient ruins
Take a stroll around what was the Forum, the hub of ancient Rome. The Tempio di Giulio Cesare commemorates the place where Julius Caesar was cremated after his assassination in 44 BC.

Nearby there are other digs to discover such as the Forum of Peace and Circus Maximus. Existing long before the Colosseum, this was once ancient Rome’s most impressive building and, reputedly, one of the largest sports and entertainment venue of all time. 

The last show was in AD 549. The first buildings erected on the site, which was drained over 2,500 years ago by the Emperor Tarquin, were constructed on the orders of Julius Caesar in 46 BC. It, too, like the Colosseum was destroyed by fires and looted for its marble.

Recent excavation has unearthed relics that help paint a picture of what it used to look like. Thanks, to the construction of Rome’s new metro line “C”, archaeologists keep finding gems.

Archaeologists keep finding gems - Forum of Peace

 

Rome’s best preserved ancient monument
The Pantheon was built on the site of an old temple on the instructions of Emperor Hadrian between AD 118 and AD 125. It was the place where every god could be worshipped. The Renaissance painter Raphael is buried along with kings and other important people. The oculus, a large round aperture at the top of the dome, lights up the inside of the building.

Make a stop at the nearby Church of San Luigi dei Francesi
France’s national church in Rome is where you can catch a glimpse of magnificent paintings by Caravaggio including The Calling of St. Matthew said to be one of his most renowned works.

Take a break at Piazza Navona
Hailed as one of the most elegant squares in Rome, this Baroque piazza is a magnet for tourists and street performers. Surrounded by restaurants, bars and gelaterias. It was constructed on the site of the Domitian Stadium in the 1st Century AD.

Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (The Fountain of the Four Rivers) is simply exquisite. Also worth a visit is the 17th century Church of Saint’Agnese in Agone.

For people-watching
Take a moment and sit on the Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti). Linking the Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinità dei Monti home of the Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti (The Church of the Trinità dei Monti.) The area surrounding here and the Piazza di Spagna has attracted tourists for centuries.

Make a wish at the Trevi Fountain
The Fontana di Trevi, a spectacular baroque piece, is on every tourist’s wish list. According to legend, if you toss a coin into the water you will come back to Rome. With so much to see you want to go back as it would be practically impossible to see everything in a single trip.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there
British Airways operates a daily weekday service from London City to Rome with an additional flight on Sundays

Each way hand baggage only Eurotraveller fares from £55, and Club Europe fares from £136, based on a return journey, are available to book on ba.com/londoncity or call 0844 493 0787

British Airways flies direct to Rome from London Gatwick and London Heathrow

For best fares and details of departures and connections from other UK airports visit britishairways.com

Staying
The Hotel La Griffe MGallery by Sofitel. For more info and rates visit sofitel.accorhotels.com