Destination Christchurch, South Island, New Zealand

The sweet sounds of a Polynesian song were in the air as I began my tram tour of Christchurch, New Zealand’s “Garden City”. I turned round and saw a group of women, whom I found out were on holiday from Tahiti. It was if I had walked into a scene from the film South Pacific. The women had captured the spirit of the people of the Garden City.

Christchurch was still reeling from the effects of the 2011 earthquake when a magnitude 5.7 tremor struck almost five years later. 

And as if earthquakes were not enough to contend with, last February hundreds of homes had to be evacuated as a huge wildfire raged on the city’s outskirts.

River Avon, Christchurch

New Zealand has thousands of earthquakes every year but, thankfully, not all are felt. As a precaution the hotel staff is eager to give you the “drop, cover, and hold on” drill. Luckily, I did not need it. 

Yet, despite all the people of Christchurch have gone through, Mother Nature has not dampened their courage and optimism for the future. The city may have been broken but the people are not. There is a sense here of community and people coming together with boundless energy and creativity to build the Christchurch of the future.

This was evident as I whizzed round its centre on one of the restored heritage trams and saw Christchurch shaking off the signs of a city devastated to one having a grand rebirth.

Botanical Gardens

From out of the ashes an exciting and very special place has started to form. New buildings are springing up. Construction is everywhere. Bars and restaurants are starting to line the River Avon once more. Public art displays fill many empty gaps. 

One ingenious idea was The Re:START mall. Built out of shipping containers, it ensured businesses reopened in the Central Business District (CBD) as soon as possible. This quirky and clever temporary solution became the iconic symbol of post-quake Christchurch turning the area from drab to fab. It drew in tourists from all over the world who flocked to shop in the brightly-coloured container-stores, see interesting artwork and watch street performers. The Re:START name has gone, but you may still see some of the containers as they are supposed to be living on until work on the new Farmers Market construction commences.

Re:Start mall

Shoppers will not want to miss the Tannery, a complex built on an old 19^th-century industrial precinct. The Victorian edifice is now bursting with boutiques stocking everything from fashion to books. 

The beautiful New Regent Street lined with pastel Spanish Mission–styled shops is also a great place to while away an hour. There are some cute galleries to mooch around as well as gift shops. You will also find plenty of cafés and restaurants here.

Regent Street

Another building to suffer the effects of the 2011 quake was the Christchurch Cathedral by Cathedral Square. One of the most important structures that represented Christchurch’s post-colonial history, it is now almost a shell. A symbol that the city is moving on is the near-by Cardboard Cathedral, opened in August 2013, designed by Shigeru Ban, it gets its name from the cardboard tubes used to make it.

While the city is looking forward to a brighter tomorrow it is not forgetting the past. The 185 Empty White Chairs, an art installation created by local artist Pete Majendie, is a poignant reminder of the lives lost in the devastating 2011 quake. Each unique chair represents a person who died. 

Street in Christchurch

You do not have to be a history buff to enjoy a visit to Canterbury Museum. Here you can get an insight into the history of the country and regions. Particularly, fascinating is the collection of Māori art and the Antarctic Gallery. 

Also worth seeing is the 19-century Isaac Theatre Royal which survived the earthquakes thanks to restoration work being carried out in the late 1990s.

After experiencing the city’s colonial past take a stroll through the picturesque Hagley Park where you will find the Botanic Gardens. For a different take on the city let a punter, in traditional Edwardian dress, take you along the River Avon that flows through the centre.

Christchurch is the largest city in the Canterbury region. With touches of England resonating through, it was my first taste of New Zealand. It is a place that I will never forget not just because it is so lovely and green but because of its people who have showed great courage and determination. When you are destroyed, you get back on your feet and start again. A lesson to us all.

By Daralyn Danns 

Getting there

Fly with Quantas (qantas.com/gb). Had a great flight with this airline. Food and service was impeccable. Booked through Trailfinders (trailfinders.com)

Stay at The George (thegeorge.com) a charming luxurious boutique hotel overlooking Hagley Park and the River Avon. Friendly and attentive staff. Thoroughly recommended. Arranged by Grand Pacific Tours booked through Trailfinders (trailfinders.com)

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist