Drenched in history and traditions that go back at least
5,000 years, Oman, or The Sultanate of Oman as it is officially called, hums
gently to the tune of the 21st century.
Muscat, the capital, is as far removed from the glitz and
glamour of Dubai as you can imagine. Overlooking the sea, sheltered by rocky
cliffs, it charms you with its desert beauty, ancient forts and stories deeply
rooted in its past.
There are none
of the tallest structures on the planet here. Most of Muscat's new buildings are low-rise (the Sultan does not appear to
be fond of skyscrapers) and whitewashed as is the long-established custom.
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| Muscat Courtesy of
Oman Tourism
|
Sauntering along the spotless pavements, taking in views of
ancient forts that loom over the harbour and accompanied by the distant wails from the minarets
calling prayer time, I entered through the gates of the old-walled city and
arrived at the Al-Alam Palace.
Nestled in the heart of old Muscat, this gold and blue
spectacular royal residence is where the Sultan entertains foreign visitors and
royalty. You cannot go in but even those whose interests do not usually span to
architecture will be impressed with this extravagant modern Islamic design.
Also nearby are some impressive government buildings. Another noteworthy stop
on a tour of the city is the splendid Royal Opera House which resembles a fort.
The Sultan
Qaboos Grand Mosque has to be one Muscat’s most exquisite jewels. A gift to the
nation from the Sultan to mark the 30th anniversary of his reign, it
cleverly melds artistic ideas from different Islamic eras and regions. It is worth poking your head inside to
see the Persian carpet and the Swarovski crystal chandelier.
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| The Sultan
Qaboos Grand Mosque Courtesy of
Oman Tourism
|
Muscat has its fair share of museums but if time it tight
then the Bait Al Zubair is the one to visit. Once a house, it showcases
artefacts from Oman’s past and present all collected by the Zubair family who
own the museum. The women’s clothing and jewellery are the highlights.
Wandering around, even as a woman, you feel incredibly safe in
Muscat. According to my tour guide, only four crimes were reported in 2015. So
you can easily experience Muscat life.
Stroll along the corniche which runs along the
picture-perfect sea front. Flanked by 18th-century buildings and the
imposing Mutrah Fort, built by the Portuguese hundreds of years ago to guard the harbour, the Mutrah area
feels as if time has stood still.
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| Al-Alam Palace |
The souk here, one of the oldest in the country, is heaving
with locals traditionally dressed as well as tourists savouring the frankincense
wafting through the air. I was with a bunch of German tourists who had kindly
given me a lift from old Muscat. They fondly called me the “Brexit lady”. But,
one thing for sure, we were all one when it came to getting good deals with the
vendors. From bread to Arabian perfumes and gold, you will find stalls and
shops bordering the labyrinth of the narrow alleyways selling almost
everything.
When you think of the desert you conjure up images of a
Bedouin lifestyle and authentic customs. For an Arabian adventure, spend a
night under the stars in the
Empty Quarter. Said to be the biggest desert in the Arabian
Peninsula, there is not even an oasis here.
For unspoilt beaches, rugged mountains and steep wadis, go
to Khasab, capital of Musandarn province. Approximately 310 miles from
Muscat, this region is often called Arabia’s Norway because it has so many
fjords. The harbour filled with dhows and small fishing boats as well as
smugglers’ vessels heading for Iran is a far cry from Monte Carlo.
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| Mum and kids walking along the pavement |
I was spellbound as I stood outside a school watching a
mother chastise her two kids for playing in the road when they were
meant to be crossing it. She led them safely to the pavement and kept a
watchful eye on them to make sure that they were obediently following her. What
was special about this story is that the mother was a goat.
It is
heart-warming sights like these, being entranced by an exhilarating landscape
while being able to peel back the centuries yet still enjoy modern day
luxuries, that encapsulate the
draw of Oman and its capital Muscat.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Oman Air has direct flights from London Heathrow to Muscat
International Airport. For more best fares and more information visit omanair.com
Stay at the Al Bustan Palace. For best rates and more
information visit ritzcarlton.com
First published in All About
Hair (All About Hair UK), the
travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist
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