Destination Luang Prabang, Lao People's Democratic Republic

Luang Prabang beguiles you with its romantic mystical charm, colonial buildings and old Buddhist temples. Sitting at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam rivers surrounded by lush mountains, this charmer is one of South East Asia’s most exquisite gems.

A former French colony, Laos became independent in 1954. The monarchy was replaced in 1975 and Lao People’s Democratic Republic, as it is now called, is one of the few remaining communist countries in the world. It is also one of the poorest in the region. 

The town’s hundreds of monks clad in orange-coloured robes received food from the locals and visitors who line the pavement

The small town of Luang Prabang is one of the country’s greatest assets. The former seat of kings is an intoxicating blend of spiritual, historical and natural beauty that will worm its way into your heart.

The Old Town is tiny, less than a mile long. At the once Royal Palace, now a museum, you can get a glimpse into the Luang Prabang’s colourful past. The Haw Pha Bang temple houses the Golden Buddha Phra Banga. This statue is credited with having protected the city since it was presented to the people by the Khmer monarchy in the 14^th century. It also gave Luang Prabang its name.

There are a myriad of temples to see. On my list were the dazzling Wat Sen or Temple of 100,000 Treasures and Wat Visun, with its watermelon-shaped stupa (a Buddhist shrine). It dates back to the 16^th century and is said to be Luang Prabang’s oldest temple. 

Luang Prabang and the Mekong River

A cruise in a traditional riverboat along the Mekong River is a great way to enjoy Luang Prabang’s serenity. The first stop was Wat Kieng Thong, arguably its most fabled temple. The sweeping curved roof comprising three levels overhanging, practically touches the ground. The Tree of Life mosaic, another highlight here, is remarkable. 

Wat Long Khoun, the Monastery of the Happy, once a sanctuary for those looking for spiritual uplift was also on the itinerary.

The Haw Pha Bang temple houses the Golden Buddha Phra Banga

Continuing along the river we stopped at villages to get a glimpse of the rural life. We also visited local artisans weaving silk and making jute paper. 

At Ban Pak, where the Ou and Mekong Rivers meet, are the Pak Ou Caves which contain a multitude of statues of Buddhas in all shapes and sizes brought by the local people. It is quite a show despite being jammed with tourists. There are two caves, the upper is a 10-minute walk up some steep steps, the lower tends to be the main attraction of this site and has been a place of worship for over a thousand years.

Wat Visun

Back in Luang Prabang, it was time to sample the night life. There are dozens of good restaurants here serving scrumptious food, obviously a French legacy. 

After a leisurely dinner it was time to visit the Night Market, said to be one of the best in Asia. Lit by lanterns, this traffic-free shopping street has a wonderful atmosphere. There are over 250 stalls packed with handicrafts made by locals and people from tribes that come from the surrounding hills. 

Wat Sen 

From paintings to shoes you should find something to tempt you. If not, there are several boutiques dotted along the main street including Ock Pop Tok, which showcases the work of Lao people.

At dawn you get a true flavour of Lung Prabang’s spiritual side and a sense that life here drifts along at its own slow place. It is certainly worth the early alarm call as the alms-giving ceremony is a spectacular, moving sight.

Pak Ou Caves

As the sun rose, the town’s hundreds of monks clad in orange-coloured robes received food from the locals and visitors who line the pavement waiting for the procession to pass them by so they can give a handful of rice to each monk that walks past them. Tourists at the ceremony have to follow strict rules and behave in a respectful manner.

Sai Bat (Morning Alms) dates back to the 14^th century and the donors are said to receive good karma in return for their donations. 

The market

Later, I asked a waiter if the monks really did eat the rice that we fed them. He told me they did. He had spent time in the temple as a novice so he could get a better start in life. For many boys this is the only way they will receive an education. It was rewarding to know that you made a little difference to somebody’s life that day.

Kuang Si Falls

After what was quite an emotional event, it was time to head over to the morning market for another sample of everyday life. Here the stallholders, mainly women, many dressed in traditional wrap around skirts, were selling fresh vegetables and fruit laid out on cloths. The meat market was something else. Not something you really want to see first thing in the morning.

A highlight of a trip to Luang Prabang is the stunning Kuang Si waterfalls surrounded by a tropical rainforest. On your way up to the falls you will come across enclosures housing Asian black bears that have been saved from poachers.

Sunset over the Mekong River

Carry on walking and you will hear the cascading water long before you see it. There is a series of falls, which tumble down on to limestone terraces and form pools of crystal-clear turquoise water which people can swim in. The star of the show has a drop of approximately 60 metres. Standing on the bridge that spans the pool below, you get sense of how majestic it is. I could have stood there for hours just watching the water.

That evening I marvelled at the most beautiful sunset over the Mekong River. The water glistening and the mountains appeared washed in gold. The gentle sound of drums from the temples sounding evening prayers filled the air. It was magical, just like my time in Luang Prabang. 

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

At present, you cannot fly directly to Luang Prabang. I flew with Vietnam Airlines vietnamairlines.com from Ho Chi Minh City via Siem Reap, Cambodia

There are other options including flying via Bangkok with Thai Airways thaiairways.com

Also check out Lao Airlines for other routes laoairlines.com

I stayed at the Sanctuary Hotel, (sanctuaryhotelsandresorts.com) which is charming and has a sense of place