Destination Cappadocia, Turkey

As the sun’s early morning rays cast their rosy glow over the sandy-yellow cliffs, a myriad of balloons adorned the sky. It was a scene that could have jumped straight out of a Walt Disney fairytale movie. Instead it was a view from the terrace of my hotel suite. When Mother Nature created Cappadocia, she truly created a spectacle. 

The rocky landscape of “The land of the beautiful horses”, as its name translates in Persian, was shaped millions of years ago by eroded volcanic ash deposit called tuff. It is almost has if you have landed on another planet rather than being bang in the middle of Turkey. 

Seeing for the first time the fairy chimneys, which resemble columns topped with mushroom-shaped hats, punctuating the sky was so jaw-dropping that it was easy to imagine that somebody had created them especially to attract tourists. 

Cappadocia
Courtesy of Turkish Culture and Tourism Office

This fairytale land, reputedly, in the second century, became a refuge for persecuted Christians who carved caves in the cliffs and the chimneys.  

At Göreme Open Air Museum, one of the region’s most popular attractions, I explored caves that were thousands of years-old. Many had once been homes to monks and others had been churches carved out of rock with walls decorated with murals depicting the life of Jesus and several saints.  

A visit to an underground city is a must on any tourist’s itinerary, that is unless you suffer from claustrophobia. It is not certain who originally built these intricate mazes that go on for miles deep under the earth, but many claim to go back as far as the 4^th century. Over time, these safe havens used by entire communities sheltering from conquering tribes grew. 

Exploring the low, narrow sloping passages that I encountered at Kaymakli underground city was an experience like no other. There was a small hole, which in times gone by was covered by a heavy stone that they rolled back when they wanted to enter or leave, which was the entrance to another world. The city, complete with ventilation systems, areas for washing and cooking as well as storage and a church, consists of eight floors, four are open to the public. 

The fairy chimneys

Cappadocia is a place where tourism collides with traditionalism and Faruk, my wonderful guide, wanted to show me a part of the latter. So it was off to Avanos, renowned for pottery-making for thousands of years, thanks to the red clay which comes from the banks of the Kizilirmak (Red River) that flows through the heart of the town. There is a lovely statue of a potter that stands in the main square. You can see items being made and you can have a go yourself.

Cappadocia

When Faruk, told me he wanted to take me to Pigeon Valley, my heart sank. I have enough trouble getting rid of them from my balcony in London. Pigeons, to the ancient people who inhabited this region were valuable as both food and fertiliser. I have to admit the pigeon houses and the strange shape of the rocks that they were carved into make a phantasmagorical vision.

Climbing up Uçhisar Castle, said to be Cappadocia’s highest fairy chimney and a fortress in the Byzantine and Ottoman periods, has to be the perfect spot to watch the sun set. 

These cave dwellings are not only museums, many have recently been turned into luxury boutique hotels and staying in one is part of the “travel experience”. The Taskonaklar Rocky Palace in Uçhisar, was my home for four nights. Once centuries-old village houses and caves, this hotel achieves the wow factor not with glitz and glamour but with its own natural beauty and charm. Time and effort has been put into the décor with antique furniture, handmade carpets and working fireplaces interspersed with mod cons. 

The Taskonaklar Rocky Palace

 

It is a family operation, so expect to have lashings of Turkish hospitality served up along with a scrumptious buffet breakfast. You should try dinner as all the food is bought in accordance with your request. 

Sadiye, the manager and Valeria, who is responsible for guest relations, and seems to be doing almost everything else in the hotel as well, are the soul of the place. They turn a stay into a lifetime memory.

Valerie suggested that I tried some of the region's wines. Turkey has been making wines for over 4,000 years and the best is reputedly from Cappadocia. Sitting with a glass of crisp Kocabag Emir, a rather delicious white, I sat in the garden mesmerised by the ever-changing colours of the landscape below. A blend of informal sophistication and romantic seclusion, this is a place that stops you in your tracks.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

easyJet (www.easyjet.com) lives up to its name. It offers a good and affordable service from London Luton to Istanbul - Sabiha Gökçen (www.easyjet.com). The online check-in system means less time queuing. Boarding was effortless. Seats are assigned. The crew were helpful and pleasant. Low cost at its best!

Pegasus Airlines (flypgs.com) has flights from Sabiha Gökçen to Kayseri. Arrange transportation with your hotel as it is about an hour’s drive to Uçhisar

I stayed at the amazing Taskonaklar Rocky Palace, Uçhisar, Nevsehir. To book visit expedia.co.uk

For more information about Turkey as well as arranging sightseeing tours and guides visit the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office (gototurkey.co.uk)



First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist