The sound of the cork popping, the bubbles dancing
spontaneously in the flute and the way it slowly tantalises your taste buds
with rich, fruity flavours. There is no doubt about it, champagne
seduces you like no other drink. It’s magic meets decadence.
To go to Bollinger, producers of some the finest champagnes, was like being taken to heaven.
And, it doesn’t get more glamorous than being invited to the
house where the revered Madame Bollinger lived, being wined and dined by the
eponymous champagne house.
After drinking exquisite wines, including La Grande Année Rosé 2004, a superb pink bubbly made with the renowned red wine, Côte aux Enfants, and R.D.1995, a well-structured aged champagne, Jérôme Philipon, Bollinger’s president challenged us to a blind tasting.
“Force de punch,” I exclaimed after savouring the fine, delicately bubbled golden-amber champagne. “I like your comment!” he replied. I was extremely flattered as I am no wine critic. But, I know what I like and this silky-smooth liquid gold was like nothing I had ever tasted before. It was Bolllinger’s legendary cuvée, Vieilles Vins Françaises which is regarded by many wine connoisseurs as a jewel in the crown of the champagne world.
Approximately, 3,000 bottles are made in exceptional vintage
years of which only a coveted few reach the UK. At £550 a bottle, this
1997 vintage is a fizz my taste buds won’t be getting used to, unless,
of course, I win the lottery.
At Aÿ, the home of Bollinger’s headquarters, history oozes
from the village’s buildings as if enveloping you in a champagne haze.
Fragmented, well-manicured vineyards carpet the surrounding hills, and
millionaires rub shoulders with farmers. I half expected to see Tante Lily, as
Madame Bollinger is affectionately known, come tearing down the road on her
bicycle on her way to inspect the vineyards – a common sight during the German
Occupation of the Champagne region.
 |
| The vineyards |
The next morning, I got up early to take a stroll along
Epernay’s fabled Avenue de Champagne punctuated with 19th-century
mansions housing the headquarters of the likes of Moët et Chandon and Mercier.
Bathed in a rosy glow from the rising sun only made them more alluring.
Batteries recharged, I was ready for the science bit.
Bollinger has been around since 1829 and is still family-owned. A tour
around the cellars is jaw-stopping. Blending, fermenting and ageing, so much
goes into a bottle. Even Bollinger Special Cuvée, the house’s
non-vintage champagne, is brimming with reserve wines fermented in barrels –
not a common practice in Champagne. I was gobsmacked to discover that around
300 wines go into making this.
The end of our visit ended with the tasting of the Vin
Clairs, wines from the last harvest. Some of these were so high in acidity, they
almost set my tongue on fire – and that was with swirling them around my mouth
and spitting them out. To think the wine maker has to decide which ones to use.
Afterwards, we were treated to lunch where, of course, there were more magnificent champagnes to taste. Such hard work!
Afterwards, we were treated to lunch where, of course, there were more magnificent champagnes to taste. Such hard work!
As the last bubbles in my champagne flute floated away, so
our visit ended. As Madame Bollinger said: “I drink it when I’m happy
and when I’m sad…” I understand why!
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
Eurostar
offers return fares to Reims, the heart of the Champagne region, with
one connection in Paris.
Connecting fares from UK stations available. For more information or to book,
visit eurostar.com
I stayed at
La Villa Eugène, villa-eugene.com
Visit Champagne Mercier (champagnemercier.fr ) to board a
laser-guided train on tour around the cellars
Bollinger tours can be booked through Arblaster & Clarke
(arblasterandclarke.com)
First published in All About
Hair (All About Hair UK), the
travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist
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