Destination Budapest, Hungary

A heady mix of the majestic and romantic tinged with edgy grittiness, Budapest beguiled me from the moment that I first stood on the banks of the Danube and saw it for the first time.

Created in 1873, when the towns of Buda and Pest, together with Óbuda united, it is no wonder that the 140-year-old capital city of Hungary has a dual personality. Separated by the not actually blue Danube, hilly Buda and flat Pest are connected by bridges, the oldest being the renowned Chain Bridge.

Budapest has had a troubled history. "Rich in revolutions," said my guide. But today this once Eastern Bloc impoverished city has metamorphosed itself with the trappings of international luxury. While much has changed, there are plenty of reminders of bygone days including centuries-old buildings and elegant architecture as well as stark remnants from the communist era.

On the Buda side I did the touristy bit and wandered round the restored medieval Castle District where the Royal Palace, the Matthias Church and the Fishermen's Bastion are situated. After my dose of history  – I had visited the Budapest History Museum and the Hungarian National Gallery, two of the museums found at the palace – I headed up to Gellért Hill to be rewarded with some beautiful views across the river.

The Chain Bridge at night
Courtesy of

Hungarian Tourism

Back in Pest, I passed the impressive riverside Parliament and on to the beautiful St Stephen's Basilica and a stroll along Andrássy Avenue. This magnificent tree-lined boulevard which leads up to Heroes’ Square is arguably the most beautiful part of the Pest side, and reminded me of both Paris and Vienna.

The House of Terror, also on this avenue, was once the headquarters of the Secret Police. The museum serves as a reminder of what life was like for the people of Hungary from the Second World War to the end of communism. A visit to the basement to see where political prisoners were locked away is particularly chilling. 

I nipped into the Opera House to see its amazing interior before making my way to the Great Synagogue, one of the largest in the world and which has a rather oriental flavour to it. Also in the same building is the Jewish Museum.

The Chain Bridge
Courtesy of

Hungarian Tourism

After soaking up the culture, it was time to participate in a real drenching. Budapest is not known as the City of Baths for nothing.  Although the thermal baths date back to Roman times, it was the Turks in the 16th and 17th centuries that established the bathing culture.

I visited the Gellért, a traditional spa hotel popular with tourists and Hungarians. It is worth visiting just to see the Art Noveau building.

Forget what you have heard about the reputation of Eastern European food and wine. It is not all goulash and potatoes in Budapest, you will find plenty of great restaurants for a culinary treat.

Hungarians also love coffee houses and cakes. I had the most scrumptious raspberry tart at the legendary Cafè Gerbeaud. If you are looking for something a little different, pop into one of the hip “ruin bars” found in abandoned buildings decked out with vintage furniture found in mainly what was once the Jewish quarter and now named  the Seventh District.

The city is at its most magical at night when it is all lit up. It is almost like a fairytale city that has been lifted from the pages of a book. 

Exotic and intoxicating, I loved every second of my weekend break in this great place.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

British Airways flies to Budapest. For more details and best fares visit britishairways.com

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace
Courtesy of

Hungarian Tourism

I stayed at Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest.  For more info and best rates visit fourseasons.com/budapest

Exquisite! Right next to the Chain Bridge, this Art Noveau palace has been lovingly restored by the Four Seasons. Service is excellent. But then would you expect anything else from what is arguably the best hotel in the country?

For information about Hungary visit gotohungary.com

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist