Destination Helsinki, Finland

Compact with a small intimate town feel, Helsinki’s heart beats to a creative and cultured rhythm. Lodged between Sweden and Russia, Finland was occupied by one or other of its neighbours until its independence in 1917. The past has left its mark. The streets and low-rise buildings of Finland’s capital articulate a strong east/west vibe. Scandi cool melds with an unmistakable Russian flavour.

If you like walking, good food and a splash of art and history, you will like Helsinki. Easy to get round on foot, you are never far from invigorating sea views. It is everything packaged together that gives the city that certain something.

Design flows through Helsinki’s veins. Quality workmanship is paramount to the Finns. Aside from Alvar Aalto, most of the country’s great designers are relatively unknown outside the country but they are revered within Finland. 

Ariel view of Helsinki

©Jussi Hellstén

Courtesy of Visit Finland

Helsinki Central Railway Station designed by Eliel Saarinen in the National Romantic style, was finished in 1919. This pink granite building set off with a green copper roof has, flanking its main entrance has two pairs of statues of stone giants each holding a round lamp to greet travellers. It is a magnificent creation and well worth going to see.

Founded by Sweden’s King Gustavus Vasa in 1550, Helsinki was to compete with Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, for Baltic Sea trade. From its humble beginnings as a market town, it became Finland’s capital in 1812. Over the years it has been destroyed by fires many times and had to be rebuilt so the city is relatively modern.

Suomenlinna

In 2012 Helsinki was in the international spotlight as the World Design Capital. The city has continued reinventing itself. The waterfront has been revamped, old industrial spaces cleverly reused, museums have been brought into the 21st century and new buildings seem to be going up everywhere. There are also great restaurants and plenty of steamy saunas.

This is an extremely civilised place. Despite this being contemporary, old fashion manners prevail here. I was told by a fellow traveller when I arrived never to cross the road unless the lights are on green even if you cannot see a car or tram. “It is something the Finns do,” he said. He also warned me to watch out for the bike lanes. “Do not walk in them you will get run over,” he added. I saw once I got out there, I needed to heed his advice.

The capital’s landmark, the Helsinki Cathedral, in Senate Square, looms over the city. You can see it practically everywhere you go. The nearby Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral is a reminder of its Russian occupants.

Temppeliakkiu Church

Arguably, Helsinki’s most fascinating site is the Temppeliakkiu Church, known as the Rock Church. Sitting in this circular space that has been carved out of the bedrock, swathed in natural light while listening to piano music is an incredible experience.

Soak up the atmosphere at the Market Square by the harbour. There are plenty of food stalls to tempt you to try their berries and fish as well as salmon soup which the Finns seem to love. There is also an indoor market at the opposite end of the square with lots of places to eat and drink.

From here you can see pretty Art Deco buildings and, in the distance, the forested islands. Not to be missed is a trip to Suomenlinna (Castle of Finland). This former sea fortress, now Unesco protected, was built by the Swedes in the mid-18^th century and encompasses eight small islands.

When Finland became a Grand Duchy of Russia, it was governed by Russia. Eventually in 1918 during the Finnish Civil War, Finland took control. 

A stroll along in the Esplanade Park, a promenade that is reminiscent of a Parisian avenue, will have you mingling with tourists and locals. In the summer you can catch a concert. So you have plenty of time to browse the interesting boutiques and sample the restaurants and cafés that line both sides of the park.

If you find the noise of the trams running along the city’s cobbled streets too much or just need a calm moment, there is always the wooden Kamppi Chapel in Narinkkatori Square. Known as the Chapel of Silence, this is your perfect destress spot.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

British Airways flies to Helsinki. For more information visit britishairways.com  

I stayed at the Helsinki – Boulevard which I can highly recommend. Book your stay through IHG Rewards Club to benefit from IHG’s Lowest Price Promise initiative – a guarantee that guests will get the lowest rates when they book directly with IHG. For further information or bookings, visit hotelIndigo.com

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist