In Israel, the land of holy cities, visiting Tel Aviv is
like taking a trip on the wild side. The Mediterranean’s capital of cool
pulsates 24/7, serving up
sun and sand with lashings of culture, a hot nightlife, a vibrant gay scene,
top-notch cuisine and superb retail therapy.
I didn’t immediately fall in love with Israel’s financial,
media and cultural hub. The tower-block hotels that litter the seafront won’t
help the “Hill of the Spring,” as its name translates, win any beauty contests,
But this urban metropolis, founded on sand dunes in 1909, had plenty of
surprises up its sleeve.
Tel Aviv is not just a city to fly, flop and party. If you
can tear yourself away from the beach, for an injection of culture, the Museum
of Art, is a great place to spend a couple of hours as it has a good collection
of both classical and contemporary art, with a focus on Israeli artists.
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| Tel Aviv |
A walk along the chicest and oldest street in the city,
Rothschild Boulevard, in the heart of what is called “The White City”, will
take you past some creamy-white Bauhaus buildings. Tel Aviv has over 4,000, the
largest collection in the world and for which it has been recognised as a
Unesco World Heritage site.
Nearby Sheinkin Street, regarded as one of the most
happening streets in the city, is studded with cutting-edge fashion boutiques,
and like Rothschild Boulevard, has plenty of great cafés and restaurants which
crackle with energy at night.
This city is definitely a shoppers’ paradise and a foodies’
heaven. From the buzzy newly-regenerated port in the north, home to some
first-class eateries and also great shops, to the bustling open-air Carmel
Market, where as well as finding mouth-watering fruits and vegetables and other
knickknacks, you can rub shoulders with locals at the numerous falafel stores
or venture to Nahalat Binyamin Pedestrian Mall for the Arts and Crafts Market,
where you can sit and nosh while watching street performers.
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| Sheinkin Street |
There are plenty of cafés on every street. Whatever your
taste and pocket you will find a variety of culinary delights. What is also
amazing is that these places are all always busy, day and night. Don’t be
surprised if the people at the next table strike up a conversation. People here
are incredibly welcoming and friendly.
For a complete change of pace, I headed to Jaffa, the
ancient port, which according to legend, was built by Noah’s son, Yefet, after
the flood. It is also said to be the place where Peter the apostle
raised Tabitha from the dead. A Franciscan church, St Peter’s, commemorates the
miracle.
Discovering Jaffa, is like walking through the entrance of
another world, There is plenty to take in, the old clock tower, in the recently
renovated central square, the buildings, the vistas of Tel Aviv’s coast and
fishermen bringing home their catch. The old stone alleys, peppered with
stylish art galleries, shops, cafes and restaurants, beg you to explore. Knowing
that you are standing where the likes of Richard The Lionheart and Napoleon
once were only adds to
the romance and mystery you can almost taste in the air.
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| Jaffa |
I couldn’t resist a visit to the nearby flea market for a
truly Middle Eastern shopping experience. You need to polish up your bartering
skills before you go, if, amid the shouts of the traders and scrawny streets
cats that seem to roam all over the city, you want to pick up a bargain from
the eclectic mix of new and vintage clothes, antique furniture and jewellery.
Explore the area and you’ll hit on some gems such as Noga,
an up and coming quarter and home to a multicultural creative community. One
place not to miss is bloom field, a gallery for art, design fashion and
jewellery. It has live
music every Sunday. There is also the Noga Gallery of Contemporary Art that
showcases Israeli artists.
One of my favourite haunts is the Ha Tachana complex. The
transformation of the old train station of Jaffa, neglected for over 60 years,
has definitely given Tel Aviv a leg up in the style stakes. Together with
sidings and freight storage buildings, there is an array of designer boutiques,
art exhibitions and, you guessed it, al fresco cafes. Vicky Christina, a Tapas
bar, is the place to go.
Neveh Tsedek, a few minutes away, is the oldest Jewish
neighbourhood, an intricate maze of narrow streets lined with a mix of old and
gorgeous renovated pastel-painted houses. At its core is the Suzanne Dellal
Centre for Dance and Theatre, surrounded by a beautiful piazza and gardens.
Later that night having dinner with friends at Herbert
Samuel, one of the city’s best restaurants, I realised that Tel Aviv had
seduced me. This hedonistic metropolis, a blend of multicultural and
religious influences blended with a laissez-faire attitude is a dream
destination. Whatever your beliefs, whether you are young or old, conservative
or trendsetting, straight or gay, you can be what you want to be.
By Daralyn Danns
Getting there
El Al offers flights from London Luton or from London
Heathrow to Tel Aviv. For flights from regional airports and for best fares
visit elal.uk
I stayed at the Herods Hotel Tel Aviv (leonardo-hotels.com)
For more information about Israel visit new.goisrael.com
First published in All About
Hair (All About Hair UK), the
travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist
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