Destination Tallinn, Estonia

Medieval entwined with modern, Tallinn dazzles with star quality. The capital city of the small country of Estonia proudly dances to its own spirited tune.

“Tallinn is such a great place. You cannot help but fall in love with it,” exclaimed a friendly young local when I asked her for directions.

Despite being a 21^st century high-tech city (this is the home of Skype), with glass skyscrapers and Wi-Fi connections practically everywhere, it is the walled Old Town that looks like it has jumped out of a Disney fairy tale that wins your heart.

Ariel view of the town wall and St Olav's Church
By Toomas Volmer
Courtesy of Tallinn City Tourist Office & Convention Bureau 

www.visittallinn.ee

Ancient church spires watch over narrow cobbled streets lined with baroque palaces, wooden houses that have seen better days, top notch restaurants, and delightful shops.

The testaments to Soviet times remind you that it was only in 1991 that Estonia regained its independence after what became known as the “Singing Revolution”.  Song united the passions of the people of Estonia and gave them the strength to stand up to the Soviet Union and sing their way to independence.  

Town Hall Square

Today’s Tallinn enthusiastically embraces the future while keeping its roots firmly in the past. Tallinn began life in the 13^th century when the knights of the Teutonic Order built a castle there. It evolved to become a major centre of the Hanseatic League. The opulent public buildings, especially the churches, and the splendid merchants’ houses are manifestations of the city’s wealth. Over the centuries, war and fire have wreaked havoc on Tallinn. That so much has survived is amazing.

The two-tiered Old Town, where I spent most of my time, is a Unesco World Heritage site. Toompea (Dome Hill) is the place to go for stunning views of the city. It is where the city’s aristocracy lived and is also home to the city’s most important buildings including the onion-domed Alexander Nevsky Cathedral build in 1900, a badge of Tsarist mastery, and the pink Estonian Parliament. 

Street in the Old Town

After strolling down the hill, I found myself in the bustling Town Hall Square. For centuries this market place has been the beating heart of the Old Town. From lively cafés spilling out on to it, tourists, like myself, gaze at what is said to be Northern Europe’s only surviving Gothic Town Hall, home to Old Thomas, the weather vane, one of Tallinn’s renowned symbols. 

The energetic can make the arduous climb up steep winding stairs to the top of the tower of St Olav’s Church which dates back to the 13^th century.

There are plenty of museums that tell the story of Tallinn for you to while away the hours but the real spirit of the city is found in the air itself. It is just being there.

Take a peek at the fascinating Town Hall Pharmacy, established in 1422. It claims to be Europe’s oldest continuously running pharmacy. In its heyday, it had such a reputation that the Russian tsar ordered medicines from it. I can only wonder what he would think about the products it sells today. In the side room you will find an intriguing array of 17^th -20th-century medicinal knick-knacks.

Billed as a “spectacular relic of Talinn’s past”, the 15^th-century Great Guild Hall, now a museum, is one that history buffs will not want to miss. It covers Estonia's history from prehistoric times’ to the end of the 20th century.

Towers and wall of the Old Town

If you want your creative juices to flow, you can climb some of the towers and a section of the wall to get a feel of what it must have been like to fight off medieval invaders. 

Meander along the charming Katariina käik (St Catherine’s Passage) where you will find lovely craft workshops begging you to go in and mooch around. 

As I refuelled at one of the city’s many great restaurants, I thought back to my encounter with the lovely Estonian I had met that morning. She was right I did fall in love with Tallinn, hook line and sinker.

By Daralyn Danns

Getting there

Finnair has flights from London Heathrow to Tallinn. There is one stop. For best rates and details visit finnair.com You could fly direct with Ryanair. For details of airports and best rates visit ryanair.com

Stay at The Three Sisters. This luxury hotel has been created from three of Tallinn’s 14^th-century merchant houses which have been renovated. For more information and to book visit relaischateaux.com

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist