The Royal Scotsman

The Scottish Highlands’ lush green terrain laced with eruptions of purple rhododendrons and yellow broom interrupted by lochs and framed by craggy peaks, whisked by as the Royal Scotsman made its majestic way along the West Highland Line to Mallaig.

The tranquil waters of the magical Loch Lomond and the distinctive shape of Ben Arthur took their place in our window then faded into the distance as the train continued. So wild, so unspoilt. No wonder it is renowned as one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys. 

As the years have zipped by, when the heaving frenzy of London on a hot summer’s day becomes too overwhelming, my mind often flashes back to the clackety-clack of the train and that special time.

The Royal Scotsman
Courtesy of Belmond

We had boarded the Royal Scotsman in Edinburgh to the skirl of the bagpipes. We headed west, skirting Glasgow along the northern bank of the Clyde to Craigendoran, the beginning of the West Highland Line, on a journey that seemed to take us to the era when train travel was glamorous and romantic.

My fellow passengers, 26 in all, came from all over the world and from all walks of life. There were writers, ex-army officers, lawyers and doctors, all seasoned travellers, all with tales to tell. 

Dinner was rather a lavish affair and, just like in an episode of Agatha Christie’s Poirot, (the Belgian detective) we all dressed up to befit the occasion. The ice had already melted and the eclectic bunch of people mingled like long-lost friends as we retired to the elegant Edwardian-styled Observation Car for after-dinner drinks. 

Observation Lounge
Courtesy of Belmond

A local Highlander came on board to sing traditional Scottish songs which we all joined in. It was more like being at a rather grand house party than on a train.

The Royal Scotsman’s compact and cosy state cabins with rich wood panelling have been extremely well-designed and make use of every centimetre of space. They all have en suite facilities – with shower – which can be used 24/7. The train travels by day and rests by night, so sleeping is easy.

Breakfast next morning was against the stunning backdrop of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain. 

View of Loch Lomond from the train

Could it get better? A walk on Morar Sands, south of Mallaig and about a15-minute drive north from Arisaig, Britain’s most westerly mainland railway station, managed to surpass it. 

White sands fringed turquoise waters. In the distance were the rocky peaks of the Isle of Skye’s Cuillin Mountains. In between was a low-lying, flower-covered plain known as a machair. We were about 235 miles from Edinburgh, but it seemed like a world away.

Cosy state cabin
Courtesy of Belmond

There were two other excursions on our route back to Edinburgh. In the afternoon was a trip with Ray Owens, a local historian, to the Glenfinnan Monument, at the head of Loch Shiel. The monument was built in 1815 as a tribute to the clansmen who fought and died for Bonnie Prince Charlie. The 21-arch viaduct here was used in the Harry Potter movies. 

On the third day we stopped at Wemyss Bay (about 78 miles from Edinburgh) and visited Mount Stuart, a Victorian Gothic mansion on the Isle of Bute, the ancestral home of the 3rd Marquess of Bute. 

Morar Sands

After being cosseted by the staff of the Royal Scotsman for three days, being catapulted back into reality came as a shock to the system. It sounds like a cliché, but this really was a trip of a lifetime.

By Daralyn Danns

For more details of journeys on the Royal Scotsman visit belmond.com

First published in All About Hair (All About Hair UK), the travel and lifestyle blog with a luxury twist